25668PT, Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, Platinum

This is a ref. 25668PT, the ultimate, fully-skeletonized result of a daring bet from one of the most pivotal times in Audemars Piguet history. The 25668 is the evolved pinnacle reference of the original ref. 5548, which was the first post-quartz crisis complicated calendar. Produced from 1988 through 1993, it celebrates the resurgence of complicated mechanical watchmaking in Switzerland with spectacular handcraft. Only 79 examples of the 25668 were created in platinum, with a total of 141 platinum produced across both ref. 25558 and 25668. This 25668PT is one of the most highly-collected, desirable Quantième Perpétuels of its era.

In the depths of the quartz crisis, when mechanical watchmaking seemed nearly obsolete, three Audemars Piguet watchmakers (Michel Rochat, Jean-Daniel Golay, and Wilfried Berney) secretly developed the calibre 2120/2800 on their own time. The three worked after hours and without pay, as they worried Audemars Piguet wouldn't allow for time and materials to be allocated to complicated watchmaking. The result didn't only bring life to Audemars Piguet complications, but all of Switzerland. The resulting Calibre 2120/2800 utilized a thoroughly reworked Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 ébauche fitted with its own calendar works. This 3.95mm movement shaped the course of complex mechanical watchmaking across Switzerland. At the time, the movement was crowned the thinnest of perpetual calendar movements ever produced. It sits inside a 36mm stepped-bezel case that measures just under 8mm in total. This elegant case shape was one of the earliest works of legendary designer Jacqueline Dimier’s career.

Seven years later, once the model had been proven a commercial success, Audemars Piguet introduced the fully-openworked ref. 25558 & later 25668 with minor updates to case pusher construction. Both debuted the blue subdial, platinum aesthetic, which has since become lore inside of Audemars Piguet. Yet, it is between the subdials where effort has been poured. The openworking encompasses immense hand-engraving, bevelling, anglage, black polish, and many well-resolved angles. Even the moonphase disc was skeletonized, speaking to attention to detail.While the main handset is polished, subdial hands are heat blued steel for contrast. The 25668PT was a clear celebration of traditional technique flourishing once again. Across all metals and both references, just 424 examples exist—of which 141 are platinum.

The 25668PT helped lead the Swiss industry in mechanical watchmaking’s return against the quartz revolution and sold to great success. Few references in Audemars Piguet history carry this much history. The 25558 and 25668 are easily one amongst the most pivotal and desirable Audemars Piguet references of the last century. 

This 25668PT presents in exceptional overall condition. Its case is very well-preserved with even surface wear commensurate with age. Its hallmarks are exceptionally crisp, including all engravings on caseback. The dial is flawless with no signs to wear. Its Calibre 2120/2800 SQ is running well within specification on our timing equipment, including all functions associated with calendar sroll-over. It comes with its original platinum pin buckle clasp, and Extract of Archive. It was last serviced at AP in 2025.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.