Prestige HMS Ten, Platinum

This is a Prestige HMS Ten, one of ten examples made in platinum to mark his brand's tenth anniversary. There is no crown on the side: it lies flat to the caseback, keeping an uninterrupted circle. More than that, it is one of the most traditionally perfectly-finished movements Romain Gauthier have made, incredible captivating and unique. This particular HMS openworks the dial near 6 to add a sense of drama to what is a very reserved watch by Romain Gauthier standards. 

Gauthier is not a classically trained watchmaker. Born in the Vallée de Joux in 1975, he studied precision mechanics, ran automatic lathes for a component supplier, and wrote his brand's business plan as an MBA thesis. In 2002 he visited Philippe Dufour to ask whether one person could still make a movement, then used his employer's machines after hours to find out. He founded the brand in 2005; its first watch, the Prestige HM, told hours and minutes, and the HMS added seconds. This Ten was shown at Baselworld 2015.

The caseback crown, inherited from the HM, keeps the case a perfect circle, and Gauthier argues it winds more efficiently because force isn't turned through 90°. The case is sculpted on either side, with a very proud rounded midcase profile. The dial comprises three parts fixed invisibly from beneath: a smooth, off-centre hour and minute dial at 12 with the ‘R. Gauthier’ logo and white gold hands, clous de Paris guilloché to either side, and a sectorial seconds arc over a window onto the seconds gear and balance.

Calibre HMS 2206 is hand-wound, 4Hz, with a 60-hour reserve and 128 parts, all made in-house except the mainspring, hairspring and jewels. Finger bridges hold the escape wheel and free-sprung balance, whose curved arms carry eccentric weights. A cut-out in the barrel bridge shows the ratchet and click within four sharp, polished internal angles. The wheels use circular spokes, harder to finish than straight arms; the lever is triangular for rigidity; and the screws have S-shaped slots that take more torque. The final polish on each bevel is done with a stick of gentian, Gauthier collects it himself in the Vallée de Joux. Finishing a HMS calibre required 60 hours alone.

What sets the Ten apart is authorship: Gauthier designed this calibre, his workshop makes almost every part, and back in 2016 Romain Gauthier produced only about 50 watches a year. The dial then hides as little of that work as possible. "My idea was to have a dial with completely unobstructed views," he said. In this and in elegance, the Romain Gauthier succeed. The HMS Ten is a very distinct, independent take on what a time-only wristwatch can be when approached with a blank slate. 

This HMS Ten presents in exceptional overall condition. Its case bears only light signs of careful wear. The dial and movement present without any faults. Its calibre HMS 2206 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. This example comes with its full set.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.