43032, Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, Platinum

In 1983, Vacheron Constantin announced to the world their intentions to return to traditional, complicated mechanical watchmaking in the wake of the quartz crisis with the ref. 43031 Perpetual Calendar. Switzerland had been decimated, with watch industry employment falling from 90,000 to 28,000 and the number of dedicated watchmakers employed falling from 1,600 to 600. In the wake of this ravaging, Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and Patek Philippe all refocused and doubled-down on mechanical complication with technical calibres. Between 1978 until 1985, each debuted their own landmark ultra-thin Perpetual Calendar, arguably the most classic Swiss complication. Each was a clear statement of intent: Switzerland was back. One year later, in '84, Vacheron Constantin pushed the edges of their ability further with this: ref. 43032, the Perpetual Calendar Skeleton.

Given the immense handwork involved and low number of surviving watchmakers, Vacheron Constantin could only make 10-15 examples of the 43032 per year. Over approximately 15 years, Vacheron estimate that around 150 examples of the 43032 were manufactured in platinum alongside an estimated 350 examples in yellow gold. Platinum was made in white and blue subdials, while yellow gold was made with white and gold subdials. The platinum case is 36mm with a traditional stepped bezel and straight lugs. Compared to Audemars Piguet's 5548 case, the 43031 and 43032 case wears a slight degree larger for its stronger, lengthier lug profile.

The design of the skeletonisation in the 43032 is optimized to create as much negative space as possible. The 43032 calibre 1120 QP SQ took the venerated JLC 920 ébauche to new heights. Its mechanics are on full display from the front and back, with many bridges given unique treatments. Each example has its own expression of floral motif hand-engraved, with contrasting traditional black polish and anglage still visible on many components dial-side. The only component which survives unaltered from the 43031 is the moonphase disc, which on Vacheron's QP is made of solid lapis lazuli. Each subdial hand is feuille-shaped anthracite, while the main handset contrasts with a masculine dauphine shape. Even upon casual viewing, the 43032 has an immense visual depth. It is a deeply impressive celebration of traditional watchmaking ability and time-intensive handcraft.

The trilogy of early 1980s ultra-thin perpetual calendars from the 'holy trinity' have come to be widely-regarded as amongst the most significant and beautiful watches of the late 20th century. Their defiance and confidence sparked the return of strength to Switzerland. Each member of that trilogy has its own slightly elevated and collected variants. The Patek Philippe 3940's could be said to be Saatchi continuations, the early Beyer series, or even doré dials. The Audemars Piguet 5548's could be said to be later salmon, Tuscan, or mother of pearl dials, or the 25558/25668 Openworks. Vacheron Constantin's ultimate QP is this: the 43032. It is obviously an effort born of sheer passion, not to expand of catalogue. The 43032 is the keystone to the foundation upon which modern Vacheron Constantin has been built.

This 43032/000P-7072 presents in excellent overall condition. Its case bears deep hallmarks and engravings with fully defined lugs. The case shows only light signs of occasional use, commensurate with age. Its calibre 1120 QP is running well within specification, serviced in 2023 with receipt included. The Extract of Archive dates this example to 2000. The watch includes its original Maltese cross platinum pin buckle, sold on the pictured blue saffiano leather strap.

This watch is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.