3700/1J, Nautilus, Beyer Dial, Yellow Gold

This 3700/1J bears the name Beyer alongside Patek Philippe on its dial, a poignant reminder of times not to be repeated. This year, we are observing not just the 50th anniversary of the Nautilus—one of the most enduring Patek Philippe model lines yet—we are observing the end of an era. Beyer, the world’s oldest independent retailer, in business for 266 years, is to be purchased by Patek Philippe this year (in 2026). The world’s longest-standing Patek Philippe retailer is to become part of the mothership. Looking past the fact that retailer-signed dials are in their twilight years, the premise that this dial puts forth—that of Patek Philippe and Beyer on even standing—is never happening again. 

The ref. 3700 Nautilus has come to define the integrated bracelet sports watch category since its introduction in 1976. So the tale goes, Gerald Genta was fresh off the Royal Oak design and, having spotted Patek Philippe executives dining a few tables away from him, sketched the Nautilus case on a napkin in five minutes—inspired by a ship’s porthole across the street. Henri Stern was impressed, and the rest is history. Etymology was based on Jules Verne’s ‘Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea’. Where the suggested RRP of AP’s ref. 5402ST was a daring 1600 USD at the time, the 3700A’s price was nearly double at 3100. The confident design and daring asking price cemented the category of utilitarian-as-luxury sports watches and bolstered AP’s success as well.

The design of the Nautilus case was functionally inspired as well. 41mm and a remarkable 7.6mm thin, its ‘ears’ are entirely functional. A solid monobloc case main supports one other separate bezel, crystal, and ear component. The side ‘ears’ hold screws where both components marry together, accomplishing a 120m water resistance. The dials for the 3700 were hand-made and ridged, manufactured by Stern Fréres in a blue-grey tone. Applied yellow gold indices are tritium-filled, with dot minute track and a date aperture. The Swiss signature at 6 bears Sigma designation, denoting precious metal use in the dial construction. A Jaeger-LeCoultre 920 ébauche, Patek Philippe calibre 28-255C, allows for this thinness. The most refined ultra-thin time-only movement of its era, this ébauche was under contract to only ever be utilized by the ‘holy trinity’ and not Jaeger-LeCoultre itself. It is finished to a Geneva Seal standard. Its bracelet, first made by Gay Freres in this /1, later in-house under the /11, comprises 150 components with screw construction.  

One year after introduction, the gold iteration debuted. Where most estimate about 4,500 examples of the 3700 were made in steel (across /1 and /11 variants together), roughly 1500 examples are thought to have been made in yellow gold, less than 20% of production. Over all of production, it is estimated that less than 2% feature retailer-signed dials. 

Through cycles of attention, fashion, and changes, the Nautilus has endured. The earliest ref. 3700 examples are objects of the most extreme quality construction, not just in militant focus on thinness but tolerances and details like tritium and screw-bracelet. This 3700 ties together that appeal with the rich history of Beyer Chronometrie of Zurich and their immense history in building the Patek Philippe throughout the last century. It is quite easily amongst the most important, attractive Nautilus ever produced.  

This 370/1J presents in exceptional overall condition. Its case is very well-preserved, with strong bevels, full bezel sharpness, deep hallmarks, and no significant marks. The dial, comparably, is excellent with no signs of damage and only very light patina starting to develop on the proud rib sections. All tritium is tan and evenly matched under UV. It comes with its Patek Extract of Archive, Duplicata Certificate of Origin, Beyer Extract of Archive, Beyer receipt, and hang tag. The bracelet is able to accommodate a wrist up to roughly 7 inches. The calibre 28-255C is running well in specification on our timing equipment.

*It should be noted that there is a small pinprick sized-section of the minute hand's tritium which has fallen through, quite subtle but must be noted. It is most easily seen clearly in the last photo.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.