‘Port Royal’ 95.0100.418 Zenith El Primero Calendar Chronograph, Titanium

This might be the most substantive 1980s integrated bracelet watch to not be famous whatsoever. It is a triple calendar with moonphase, just to start. It is a chronograph, based on the high-beat calibre 3019 (you know, the calibre that saved Zenith and, arguably, the first automatic chronograph?). It is, most importantly, a wildly lovely integrated bracelet design. And, as if that weren’t enough, it’s in titanium. This is ref. 95.0100.418, produced in only 270 examples between just 1984 and 1986. It was branded as the Port Royal and, in a word, it’s rad.

The calibre 3019 PHF here was built upon the A386’s 3019 PHC, first debuting in a prototype El Primero which Hodinkee has referenced in their recent release. The actual production of that calibre was largely used in the Espada and Port Royal, two Zenith chronographs that time has mostly forgotten. The Port Royal is so orthogonal to all other El Primeros, largely for the case design. The case is in titanium and about 40mm, with a tapering bracelet of very thin links. It was made in grey, black, and white dials, as well as a an only once-recorded titanium and gold bimetal. Interestingly, all the black and white dials have a bright red chronograph seconds, which sings in the metal, while the grey dial had Romans. For all the complication, it’s still just 12mm thin.

In its time this was the halo product of Zenith’s entire portfolio. That necessitated a value which meant almost none sold. Values have hovered between 10-20K USD for, well, forever. Next to the A386, Covergirl, or A3817, it has its own distinct flavor outside the usual Zenith tasting notes. Despite great, uber-80s design, complication, and objective rarity, these have remained off the map. Perhaps Zenith just got the name wrong in Port Royal. Everything cool in the 80s was just called Turbo (the 80s were not restrained). Even if it has a long name already, I like to think of this as the El Primero ‘Turbo’ . . .it’s just more of everything. This should’ve been the Miami Vice watch if you ask me, sorry Ebel.

This example looks great overall. The media-blasted finish to the titanium is still present pretty much everywhere. The bracelet looks strong as well. The dial also has no real visible signs of damage, which isn’t always the case on these, still with clear print. It comes with a some papers like the Guarantee papers, service centre list, carrying card, and instruction booklet, from a well-regarded English retailer.