Panna Rail Dial 16550 Rolex Explorer II

The transitional 16550 marked the start of the Explorer II as a dual-time zone watch. In one instant, the hour hand was able to jump and the GMT-Master II had a credible rival. Further, it also introduced a massive fault we’ve all come to adore: the cream dial. Early 16550s started white, but, thanks to a defect in paint, almost always turn warm cream ivory. The effect can range from light light ivory to tan, based on environmental factors. And it compliments tritium in a way few factors can. Americans call it the cream dial, Italians the panna. It is, for me and some others, the über-Explorer II.

The 16550 was landed in 1985 and was produced until just 1989, with fewer examples made than the references on either side of it. These few pieces had many variations through the production run. Hands and surrounds changed materials from white gold to black. Small variations changed in the ‘Superlative Chronometer; Official Certified’ text. Small hands exist. Fat and slim (or often called square vs thin) font bezels exist in the reference. Dials varied by rail (or not), black, white (including cream here), and the Swiss < 25 T signature. In short, it’s a beautiful mess.

This is the one model in five-digit where white gold surrounds are the most desirable variant. In addition, you really want this squared font bezel. This is the most ‘16550’ look there is. Rail dials such as this example occasionally attract a very small premium, but it’s a bit of a wash. The earlier non-rail is actually less produced for the cream section of production as far as I can tell. It’s far more down to the level and evenness of cream tone, all else equal. It is a true vintage Rolex lover’s Explorer II, probably the only thing that can hold a candle to the 1655 for interest and aesthetic pull. If manners maketh man, patina maketh vintage Rolex. This is simply one of the most attractive, unusual flaws from posterity. The very well aged ones are as good as an Explorer II has ever looked to me. And for Gordon Ramsay too, apparent, as he famously owned a beautiful cream dial 16550. Man of taste. 

This example is excellent. The case has perhaps seen a light polish but is very strong overall. Its dial is magnificent with lovely tritium plots that perfectly match the dial. Its bezel enamel is still all present as well. It comes with its full kit from a well-regarded London retailer.