5004R, Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph, Pink Gold

Patek Philippe’s 5004 is the culmination of a particular complicated lineage under Philippe Stern. Never before undertaken, it was the first production Perpetual Calendar Split Seconds Chronograph—uniting two historically separated high complication histories in one ultimate calibre. Yet, its appeal is not simply in mechanical complication alone but also the rich history surrounding evolution of the Lemania-ébauche era at Patek Philippe; this is its pinnacle

Common figures state that the 5004 was only able to be made in ~12 examples per annum, in production from 1994 until ~2012 (excluding unique pieces). While the timeline is accurate, it is likely that a larger number than 12 were produced yearly in that window. Total production is estimated to be just shy of 1,000 examples, comprised of 300 in yellow gold, 300 in platinum, 200 in pink gold, 140 in white gold, 60-150 in steel, and 1 in titanium. Regardless of the precise numbers, which still remain somewhat opaque today, this 5004R in pink gold is one of the rarer metals offered—rarer than the 5004P or 5004J and unrivaled in warmth. It is amongst the most important and desirable Patek Philippes ever made. 

The 5004 was reportedly hailed in its time by Philippe Stern as, ‘The next 2499.’ While the 3970 was a technical feat, the PCC had been tried prior. The PCC Split Seconds had not been attempted. The Lemania 2310, however, was never meant to be a split. Said Philippe Stern in an interview, ‘The problem was that the Lemania 2310 or CH 27, was never intended to be a split seconds chronograph. We had two major challenges. The first was the pinion that all the hands – hours, minutes, chronograph seconds and split seconds – had to be made even longer and we were really stretching the limits of what was possible. Even the slightest mistake it was easy to bend this pinion. And second thing was that the CH 27 would experience rattrapante drag each time the split seconds function was activated.’ This was solved through a new mechanism known simply as ‘the octopus’ to collectors, which is an isolator. This isolator sits atop the split lever and physically lifts up the rettrapante lever once the split is activated, such that no torque would be placed on the heart-shaped cam. It derives its name from the octopus-shaped wheel which takes precedence in the 5004 caseback and completely eliminates drag, leading to perfect engagement. That is just one new module inside these 407 components, the best of complicated Lemania. It is in these ultra-flagship models that Patek Philippe’s finishing prowess comes to bear as well. 

To that end, it is also worth noting that the bridge over the split wheel has evolved over time, starting as a single, short central bridge and eventually growing to extend out to the octopus wheel pinion in an elongated shape with an inner angle. This example sports the latter elongated bridge shape.

The design of the 5004 echoes greats of the past and particularly the 3970, only slightly bolder. Its 37mm case was made by Guillod in La Chaux-de-Fonds. Its lugs and mid-case are stepped, with a convex rather than concave bezel. The 5004’s crown-pusher also necessitated a larger diameter, leading to a signature, generously proportioned crown which collectors have come to adore. Dial-side, the 5004 references past greats. Made by Stern, then Singer, and later Flückiger, the dial's Arabic numerals are inspired by the 1518 and early series 2499 (merged with an abbreviated, contemporary minute track). Its pump pushers are straight late-series 2499 and 3970. All models feature feuille hands, a nod to early PCC design. 

The 5004 is Patek Philippe’s utmost ability from the Lemania years. It represents not just some of the most complicated watchmaking ever attempted, but excellent stewardship and vision from Mr. Stern in order to keep its aesthetic relatively understated despite the mechanical strides. It is correctly elusive, restrained, romantic, and rare. The 5004 represents everything that Patek Philippe were at their very best. 

This 5004R is remarkably well-preserved with complete case architecture and virtually no surface wear. It is a standout example in every way. Many retailers would describe this as unworn, which while technically incorrect best describes the state of its case.

It features no signs of wear, under microscope or loupe. The case has never been touched at service, never polished, and the dial is perfectly preserved. Its calibre CH27-70 Q is running well in spec on our timing equipment.

All functions of the calibre CH27-70 Q including time, perpetual calendar, chronograph, and split are operating perfectly.

It comes with its full set including original display box, both inner and outer boxes, leather folio, all original documentation, certificate of origin, gold setting pin, and solid caseback, on the pictured navy calf strap with its original pink gold deployant clasp.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.