5970R, Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, Pink Gold

The ref. 5970 began with a challenge from Phillipe Stern to his son Thierry: modernize Patek’s storied Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (PCC) to bring it into the 21st century. This was a tall order given the success of the preceding 3970 and its substantial production run from 1986 to 2004. Such was the weight of this challenge that Patek extended the development timeline to 3 years rather than the typical 6 months. In 2004, Patek released the 5970, a contemporary 40mm case with meticulously sculpted proportions, particularly in the lugs, that clearly announces its lineage through respectful nods to previous PCC references.

The case metal production numbers for the 5970 were reversed from those prior. It was initially released in pink and white gold in approximately 1000 examples each, followed by yellow gold in 2008 in 500 examples, then platinum in 2009 in 500 examples. 5970 production ended in 2011 after only 6 years, the shortest of any Patek PCC reference—though not due to a lack of demand. Near the mid-2000s, in-house movement design became a necessity for clients. Needing to align with the shifting priories of the market, likely combined with a desire to time a new release with the 70th anniversary of Patek’s first serially produced PCC (ref. 1518), Patek Philippe shortly thereafter introduced the ref. 5270. As a consequence, there are virtually no 5970 series, as there are with other references; all dial and case configurations are consistent across production.

The 5970 is the last of the ébauche era at Patek, utilizing the same storied Lemania movement as the 3970 that preceded it, now housed in a period appropriate 40mm case. The CH 27-70 Q predates the trend and demand for in-house watchmaking that prompted the 5270 with its in-house 29‑535 PS Q calibre. Prior, use of Lemania represented a cohesive effort from all of Vallée de Joux. Based on the Lemania 2320 (2310 ébauche family), the calibre was completely disassembled, regulated, and—importantly—finished at Patek Philippe to Geneva Seal standard. Patek began working to its own internal Patek Seal Standard in 2009, claiming it to be more comprehensive. However, the lack of clearly defined finishing standards and lack of third party evaluation has proven controversial. Sold in 2006, this example falls within the Geneva Seal period. The heavy modifications required to create a Perpetual Calendar from the 2320 ébauche were entirely performed at Patek Philippe. The consistent calibre allows the 5970 to have the same 12.9mm thickness as the 3970, though the larger diameter creates a more balanced, flat, and less-bulbous feel. 

Rumors state that 20 dial configurations were originally in contention, and the balanced and well thought-out design here supports that claim. The additional space on the dial was used to bring back a tachymeter back, last seen on the second series 2499 but removed for the third to aid legibility. It also allows the date track surrounding the moon phase to sit pleasantly in-line with the minutes scale, rather than jutting out in a ‘chin’ as seen on the later 5270. The 5970 features feuille hands, the widely-adored typewriter date font from the 3970, and an enlarged date window relative to its predecessor. The chronograph pushers return to square, echoing those present on the 1518 and first series 2499 in more contemporary form. 

Of all the design features on the 5970 perhaps most noticeable are the sculpted lugs. Reminiscent of Vichet-cased 2499 hybridized with 1578 Spider Lugs and a sprinkling of 2431 Flame Lugs, they feel a natural evolution for Patek case design, pushing the 5970 into modern aesthetics and providing a comfortable wearing experience. Patek Philippe have historically displayed finished prowess and creativity through lug design, the 5970 underscores that ability triumphantly. This shape in particular is notoriously challenging to finish, the process itself taking 1 year to develop as early efforts were compromising sharpness. In time, the design was able to be resolved sharply.

The 5970 is not about novel movement design or radical change. This is reference aimed squarely to bring a touch of modernity to the most important bloodline at the heart of Patek Phillipe’s history and reputation. To this aim, it was incredibly successful. The 5970 is a balance between respect for the PCC’s history through nods to prior great references and contemporary design choices. A worthy PCC for the 21st century, the 5970 unites the ébauche era with modern tastes. It stands at the cusp of Patek's modernization and offers ties to both traditional watchmaking and brand culture that have we may not see again.

This 5970R presents in exceptional overall condition. Its case bears deep and crisp hallmarks, with full lug volume. There is extremely light surface wear commensurate with occasional use. Its dial shows no faults or signs of damage. The clasp, even, appears hardly worn. Its calibre CH 27-70 Q is running well in specification on our timing equipment. Sale includes watch, original strap, deployant clasp, all original papers, original inner & outer box, pusher tool, solid caseback, and receipts noting service.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.