1806, Day-Date, Florentine Case, Pink Gold

This 1806 is a rare, early production version of the 18XX series Day-Date, the series in which the model became the symbol of power it is today. Its rarity comes from a number of features, starting with its pink gold 36mm case. It is estimated that Rolex produced only 1 pink gold example for every 75 in yellow. In period, it was so slow to sell that pink gold was discontinued in the following five-digit model. The case and bracelet have been hand engraved from factory in a cross hashed pattern known as ‘Florentine’ finish, a finish applied to a select number of mid-century Rolex dress watches that sold mostly in the Middle East. The soleil dial features ‘Swiss’ only signature, doorstop indices, and alpha hands, all indicating early production within the series. 

The 18XX was the third generation of the Day-Date, where the classic design found its footing. During its lengthy production, 1959-1977, numerous types of hands, indices, and lume were utilized, all while the reference became one of the most successful Rolex products ever made. The innovative Day-Date complication became inextricably coupled with status thanks in large part due to President Lyndon B Johnson wearing one. Rolex leaned into this heavily in period with a genius marketing campaign. One 1966 ad pictured a red phone in the hand of a suit-wearing arm with Day-Date on wrist and text that simply stated ‘The President’s Watch.’ the Day-Date quickly rose to prominence among those wanting to show their status; 1960’s movie stars, jet set, and world leaders. 

The 18XX series hallmark is a ‘pie-pan’ shaped dial, which, along with its acrylic crystal, did not survive the transition to 18038 in 1978. Two movements were utilized during its long production run, first the automatic calibre 1555 and then the higher beat-rate 1556 starting in 1965. The 1556 was upgraded to include hacking seconds in 1972. This example, dated to 1962 features the calibre 1555, the first fully in-house Day-Date calibre. It should be noted that the 1555 predates the quickset function. For many, the dream would be a pie-pan dial with quickset, but in reality you must choose between the two. This example is the ultimate dial aesthetic for many, but in return asks for a little effort in setting. 

Florentine finished examples are an uncommon sight, especially so when offered with an original matching bracelet. And they're almost never seen in pink gold. While the 18XX  is known for the origination of the ‘President' bracelet this example was optioned with a brick bracelet, the most expensive in the catalogue at the time, with finishing to match the case. Florentine finishing was a practice that, as the name suggests, originated in Italy. It is a highly technical finishing method that requires a unique balance of patience, attention to detail, delicacy, and strength to produce. The resulting matte finish was originally marketed as more casual than polished alternatives, though over time it has become increasingly desirable due to its rarity and distinct visual appeal. The silver ‘Soleil’ dial of this 1806 has numerous indicators of production early in the 18XX range. The Radium pips denoted by its ‘Swiss’ only signature hold a deep, uniform patina and are fully intact. It features Alpha hands and the rare and sought after wedge-shaped ‘Doorstop’ indices at 6 and 9. 

The Day-Date has become a clear symbol of status and holds wide recognition and appeal. Numerous options have come to market in an attempt to allow the wearer to align themselves with its status while still demonstrating their ‘uniqueness’. This 1806 in its ultra-rare configuration and distinct aesthetic may be one of the most successful in achieving those goals. It is a reference for those who both understand and appreciate the origins of the Day-Date’s notoriety and want to demonstrate it through owning one of its lesser available expressions.

This 1806 presents in very good, honest overall condition consistent with its age. The dial has original lume application, still intact, matched on the handset (where a few pinprick holes present in the minute hand.) All lume applications are relatively dark, as expected from this time of production. The dial has very light spotting consistent with a high humidity environment that is matched in the indices, which have a light oxidation around the edges.

Its case (SN 81XXXX) is strong and proud with excellent factory edges up to the Florentine texture which is sharp and original. The hallmarks have sharp edges and are well defined. Almost precisely at 9 there is a dent on the upper section of the mid-case, just under the bezel. The bracelet is still remarkably tight, with little to no stretch. Its clasp bears all correct factory stampings dating to the 4th quarter of 1961. A scratch on the edge of the acrylic crystal exists near 8. Its calibre 1555 is running well within specification on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.