Beyer Dial ‘Dato 45’ Heuer 3147S Carrera

There are tales from years ago of clients requesting their Pateks from Tiffany specifically to not bear the Tiffany name on the dial. Even today, there are a tiny subset of collectors who believe having two names on a dial detracts from the watchmaker’s equity. Today’s market, however, violently disagrees. A Tiffany Nautilus is, apparently, worth twice a standard dial. As with most things, the truth probably lies somewhere between those bracketed extremes. But not all retailer signatures are created equal.

Tiffany is luxury, New York, and Audrey Hepburn, or at least it was until Arnault. Serpico y Laino is Latin y sexy and Joyeria Riviera is a signature you only collect when you’re in deep enough that you’re remortgaging your home to buy Rolex. Retailer signatures say an extra little something about their wearer, whether intended or not. Beyer are, and have always been, a watch-first retailer, the oldest watch store in continuous operation under one family since 1760. This is the watch collector’s signature if ever there were one. And it just so happens to be on one of the most accessible great Heuers.

The Date Carrera began with a Date at 12 or ‘Dato 12’ in 1966. However, after two years, Heuer realized the chronograph hand obstructed the window. And so in ’68 this, the ‘Dato 45’, so nicknamed for its date location, was born. It’s a single-sub and divisive chronograph design, an aesthetic resulting from evolution. Or, as an ad from Heuer in ’69 declared, ‘ideal for the businessman who needs a chronograph but can never remember the date.’ With no sense of irony whatsoever, Heuer said to the world that this is the ideal watch to lap Monza whilst signing documents. That’s pretty cool, aiming to be the Senna of boardrooms.

For many years it was considered the ugly duckling of the vintage Carrera range. But then endless TAG references and Hodinkee LEs have brought this look back into the mainstream, a bit like they’re attempting with Hublot right now. I’d rather a dial be winking at me than have some shit pun about resale. And I’d definitely rather have a dial read Beyer.

This example is in great overall shape. The case has strong edges and presents very sharp lugs. Its dial is unblemished, with the printed scripts all very clear. Its tritium is all golden-cream, beautiful. It comes from a well-regarded Miami retailer.