'Khaki' Green 5168G-010 Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Generally speaking, Aquanauts are less collectable after tritium. But there are exceptions, and this might be one in the future . . .it’s too soon to say. But it is unusual, and very, very green. And Luminova actually blends nicely against green. It’s the 5168G-010: made in 2019, supposedly as part of the Aquanaut’s 20^thcelebrations, just a few years too late. This is a strange and unusual introduction for a strange and unusual Aquanaut.

The 5186G-010 (the 010 designates green) is a refreshingly natural tone of the jumbo Aquanaut. Prior to the unspeakables, this was the youngest, sportiest Patek Philippe collection. Green works here. But it was never a limited edition, though claimed to be one of the rarer productions. Otherwise, it’s your usual Jumbo rubber Aquanaut. It’s large, some corners have been cut in the finishing, and the clasp is exceptionally well-engineered. Except it’s nicknamed the khaki, and green isn’t what khaki means. I don’t understand it either.

And I don’t understand the do-it-again attitude. The first green dial Aquanaut was the 5167A, A for acier or steel, made 2010. That extremely collectible Aquanaut is thought to have been made in 10 examples. That’s the strap JM was actually referring to in that video. This is more like a production of 10K (okay, I’m stretching). In some ways, this was a bit of a Le Mans Daytona for those in the know. But is it still a Le Mans if it remains in the catalogue over five years? Probably not.

But here’s the thing: it’s a green Aquanaut. And that oddity within the context of the notoriously self-righteous Patek Philippe stands for something. What? I’m not sure. But collectors see value in that left-field bat alone. And that’s okay with me. If you want something truly collectible, you can check into the 5167A made for the Singapore Grand Exhibition. Or just go vintage, at risk of being repetitive. But they’re not khaki-not-khaki, and this is. Modern Patek Philippe is a bit like quantum physics. In the words of Rich Feynman, ‘I think I can safely say that nobody really understands modern Patek Philippe.’ Or something like that.

This example sports a great case, seemingly untouched. It comes with its complete set, from a well-regarded London retailer.