'The Owl' 5572BA Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Day Date

Shortly after the debut of the 5402, Audemars Piguet became very experimental with the Royal Oak as a canvas. Aiming to bring the Royal Oak to the wider market, Audemars Piguet debuted the Day Date version of the Royal Oak, this ref. 5572. Note, that is a four-digit reference. AP changed from four to five digits beginning in 1984, marking this out as one of the earliest Royal Oak Day Dates made. It was shortly renamed 25572. Just 524 examples were made in yellow gold over both references. But what you really want is this petite tapisserie, block signature, early dial. And there are far fewer of these. It’s a mini-5554 Royal Oak QP that doesn’t take itself too seriously.

Of this non-moonphase 25572, 1770 examples were sold from 1983-1998 (AP keep amazing records). This reference represents the earlier productions characteristically, with a flat Audemars Piguet signature, unsigned crown, and lumeless Petite Tapisserie. The dial was executed in a warm cream tone, perfectly accenting the gold case and likely by Stern no less. The two oversized calendar counters which gave this reference its name have a tendency to oxidize over time and that process is only just beginning on this example. Interestingly, both lumed and non-lumed hands have been observed in this reference with no correlation to time of production. I personally adore the cylindrically polished non-luminous hands. The dot indices beside the subdials rock on either variant.

Perhaps more importantly, though, there’s nothing else like it. The Nautilus didn’t get a Day Date until 2010, but only as part of an Annual Calendar. The Overseas comes in retrograde date or all-out QP. Rolex’s Day-Date is an institution, but not integrated nor sporting. See what I mean? What’s the peer? In short, it doesn’t exist. There’s even a degree of practicality added by the automatic calibre 2224/2825 (JLC ébauche) with rapid-advance setting. When even your base-est 5554 QP is over 100K US, these offer a cleaner dial and double down on 80s feel. As a dear friend of Hairspring recently put it when texting me, ‘It looks like it belongs permanently in a 930 Targa Turbo in Miami.’

This example is a standout in a few ways. First, it's a correct early dial and four digit serial. The case is lovely though, matched in the bracelet with proud bevels and very strong brushing present as well. The dial is cream in tone, and quite even. No Extract, but AP are being difficult about that these days so that's understandable. It hails from The Netherlands and a well-regarded retailer.