'Friction Japan' Moritz Grossmann Tefnut 36

If Moritz Grossmann had an equivalent to the Simplicity, this might be it. However, there are even fewer of them. Moritz Grossmann’s entirely independent watchmaking is renown, from the traditional clear-jewel Glashütte style to innovation like the Hamatic. However, through that time, one constraint has held many collectors back: proportions. The most attractive dials often only come in less-than-classic proportions. The Tremblage, for example, is 41mm and 11.5 tall. Not slight for a three-hander. This is the ‘Silver Friction’ LE made for Japan, 1 of just 12 examples of the Tefnut with this configuration made in a 36mm case. And the good news just keeps coming: it’s just 8.3mm thin.

The Tefnut 36 is the most svelte Moritz Grossmann case that exists, but it took the collectors of Japan to create a dial that would make this model distinctly desirable. These were never available outside of Japan at retail. So what’s different here? This is a lightly-grained matte silver dial with lacquered numerals and the old font signature. Its hands are brown-violet heat ‘blued’, a tone that is in fact far harder to achieve than blue.

Its calibre 102.1 is traditional Glashütte pocket watch style: German silver bridges, hand-engraved balancecock, solarized ratchet wheel, clear jewels, gold chatons, and hand engraved lettering. This calibre is just 3.45mm thin as it ditches the restart button on many benu models and operates through traditional crown movement. It is also helped by a 3/5 plate rather than 3/4 plate. This is all cased in pink gold which really, really works. All came on grey suede straps, which gives it a casual and less imposing wear than it might otherwise have.

The Silver Friction isn’t a watch most will encounter, but it is arguable one of the most charming and pretty Moritz Grossmanns which has ever been made. It is a watch which aligns with the sensibilities of many collectors today, seeking to pair back elements rather than add them. I suppose it only makes sense that Japan also, or their demand rather, created the Simplicity. They’re simply ahead of the curve.