Voutilainen Vingt-8, Titanium
This is one of the most unusual Voutilainens I’ve ever seen surface and it’s not like there are many I get to talk about to begin with. The Vingt-8 is Kari’s aesthetic sense, distilled. What the Chronomètre Bleu is to FP, the Vingt-8 is to Kari. Only this Vingt-8 is in titanium with a space…
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3751 IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante
Patek may indisputably own the perpetual calendar chronograph, but IWC contested the 5004 Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante in the same year it debuted with this: the ref. 3751 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante. It included the most infamous advertising campaign any watch has ever braved, almost unimaginable today, which began in the early 90s with the…
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Red Jasper Dial 1601/8 Rolex Datejust
In Datejust collecting, this is the peak. It’s a stone that’s not found in Day-Dates, a shade of royalty reserved for the Datejust only, which elevates the model to something far beyond 1601. It’s what’s known as a red jasper dial and it’s far less common than the already hard-to-find green jasper. Interestingly, while traditional…
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First Series Patek Philippe 3940J
This is a first series: Genesis. It’s the sort of 3940 that will raise the heart rate of even the most grizzled collectors. The very first 25 went to Beyer and were signed as such, then began the über desirable standard first series. They are solid caseback. Sunken Subs. And no interruption to that perfect…
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4-Line Dial, PCG 5512 Rolex Submariner
In vintage, there are two different types of people. Some like tropical dials, cases that were used until not a millimeter is left unscathed, watches with stories. Others want a museum example, something that is true and original, but looks like it was left in your grandfather’s drawer (as is often the tale). This is…
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Türler Dial 166.052 Omega Constellation Chronometer
It’s hard to think of a three hander with date that’s more classic than a 1601 Datejust. But they do exist. The vintage world has these little understudied pockets capable of amazing everyone. This is one. It’s a Constellation, and it’s a Constellation in the same way that U2 is a band. U2 are world…
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126509 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
As a vintage lover, I like the Le Mans as much as the next guy. But one thing saddens me. It feels like we’re seeing the slow, steady extinction of the solid caseback. And solid casebacks are never cooler than when made in precious metal. Solid gold and platinum casebacks have been disappearing from brand…
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‘S.M. Alzouman’ 3700 Patek Philippe Nautilus
I have never met S.M. Alzouman, but I know that he is, to use the modern parlance, an absolute G. This is a 3700 Nautilus in two-tone, as late-70s as the Nautilus aesthetic gets. But I’m fairly confident you won’t have seen this dial before, because this is the only one. Retailer signatures are one…
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Salmon 47101 Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques Chronograph
On a recent podcast episode, I voted for this 90s ref. 47101 as the greatest chronograph pusher of all time. Both for how sexy, at home, and stylized the pusher itself is (almost square on wrist, yet oval in profile), but also the feeling of this 2310 backing it up. I know, no one cares,…
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Steel 565 Patek Philippe Calatrava
Perfect simplicity is more difficult to create than complication. As the often misattributed quote goes, ‘If I had more time, I would’ve written you a shorter letter.’ I don’t have time, so I’m going to fully expound the many virtues of the 565 with complexity. It’s one of the earliest examples of Patek Philippe flirting…
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