25820SP Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar
Any Royal Oak without brushing on the top of its bezel is serious business. At a glance, it almost looks wrong to have a fully mirror-finished bezel. But it isn’t wrong, it’s platinum. And it’s very likely to be a vintage QP. The evolution of the Royal Oak QP is quite a complex and nuanced…
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Error Dial 5650G-001 Patek Philippe Advanced Research Aquanaut Travel Time
Error dials are something we typically associate with Rolex, things like the infamous double-9 Air King. Surely, the holy-trinity Patek Philippe has never faltered that obviously. We hear frequently about how, while Rolex make in excess of one million watches yearly, Patek Philippe make just 60-75K watches. And yet, in the ultra-high end ‘Advanced Research’…
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Salmon Dial 42040 Vacheron Constantin Overseas
There are few greater value opportunities than the current market for first generation Overseas, pretty much all variants, but salmon dials in particular. A direct descendant of the 222, this was the intermediary step between 222 and the calatrava cross-inspired case that many know today. The first generation is not only more classic in 37mm…
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2447NST Heuer Carrera Second Execution
There is no objective reason early Carreras should not be held in exactly the same esteem as manual pump pusher Daytonas. But that’s particularly the case for this, the 2447NST. NST here denotes a black dial with tachymetre, which really completes the minimal Carrera aesthetic by tying in Heuer’s motorsport history more literally. It’s properly…
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Voutilainen Vingt-8, Titanium
This is one of the most unusual Voutilainens I’ve ever seen surface and it’s not like there are many I get to talk about to begin with. The Vingt-8 is Kari’s aesthetic sense, distilled. What the Chronomètre Bleu is to FP, the Vingt-8 is to Kari. Only this Vingt-8 is in titanium with a space…
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3751 IWC Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante
Patek may indisputably own the perpetual calendar chronograph, but IWC contested the 5004 Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante in the same year it debuted with this: the ref. 3751 Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Rattrapante. It included the most infamous advertising campaign any watch has ever braved, almost unimaginable today, which began in the early 90s with the…
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Red Jasper Dial 1601/8 Rolex Datejust
In Datejust collecting, this is the peak. It’s a stone that’s not found in Day-Dates, a shade of royalty reserved for the Datejust only, which elevates the model to something far beyond 1601. It’s what’s known as a red jasper dial and it’s far less common than the already hard-to-find green jasper. Interestingly, while traditional…
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First Series Patek Philippe 3940J
This is a first series: Genesis. It’s the sort of 3940 that will raise the heart rate of even the most grizzled collectors. The very first 25 went to Beyer and were signed as such, then began the über desirable standard first series. They are solid caseback. Sunken Subs. And no interruption to that perfect…
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4-Line Dial, PCG 5512 Rolex Submariner
In vintage, there are two different types of people. Some like tropical dials, cases that were used until not a millimeter is left unscathed, watches with stories. Others want a museum example, something that is true and original, but looks like it was left in your grandfather’s drawer (as is often the tale). This is…
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Türler Dial 166.052 Omega Constellation Chronometer
It’s hard to think of a three hander with date that’s more classic than a 1601 Datejust. But they do exist. The vintage world has these little understudied pockets capable of amazing everyone. This is one. It’s a Constellation, and it’s a Constellation in the same way that U2 is a band. U2 are world…
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