Fuchsia, Gilt Dial 1675 Rolex GMT-Master
To any sane outsider, perhaps someone who just bought their first 40mm 5226G Calatrava, vintage Rolex lovers seem a bit deranged. Like Tolkein’s Ringwraiths, we scour Middle-Earth in search of the one, obsessing over its most insignificant minutia. We have our own tongue, whispering things to each other like rail SCOC, RCO, frog foot, Concorde,…
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‘Jean-Claude Killy’ 6236 Rolex Datocompax
Every discipline has its greats. Rock has the Stones. Italian has risotto. Le Mans has the 917. Absolute pricks have Kim Jong Un, second only to Jake Paul. But ski racing? Skiing has Jean-Claude Killy. The French alpine skier took home a trifecta of golds in the 1968 Winter Olympics, a dominant force. This skill…
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‘Red Racing’ Dial 145.012-67 Omega Speedmaster
This is something of a final boss for those who worship at the altar of Moonwatch. It’s known as the ‘Red Racing’ or sometimes ‘Black Racing’, as both colors are distinct to this dial. There are two iterations, with and without a professional line, and fewer than 10 examples of each are known. For many…
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‘Mini Jumbo’ 4332SA Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
In the time the very first 36mm Royal Oak, the 4332, was released, bimetal was the most desirable. The Royal Oak was introduced to elevate steel beyond its initial tool watch remit. But almost as soon as the ink from Genta’s pen had dried, it was introduced in precious metal. This was the 80s. Stockbrokers…
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78092 Cartier Tank Normale in White Gold
So, you’ve decided you want a vintage Tank. You’re probably a bit French, or at least aspire toward that. Your evenings are all fine tailoring followed by some light chainsmoking with five glasses of vin. You’re ready to show the world that your refined elegance has evolved beyond a Calatrava or god forbid a diver….
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Oman Khanjar Dial 6265 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona
Speaking plainly, this is the only ‘John Mayer’ Daytona I really care about. Okay, his is a Desert Eagle but go with me here. This Oman 6265 and the Desert Eagle 6263 (& 6265) are the only two recent sport Rolexes to share a very distinct privilege. Unlike nearly all other Middle Eastern dials, on…
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‘The Hour Glass’ Edition Chopard LUC 16/1860/1018
You don’t change the recipe to Gordon Ramsay’s beef bourguignon. It’s perfect, he’s already painstakingly worked out every measured gram and second through repeated trial and error. That’s also why the 16/1860 has aged so gracefully, Chopard didn’t squander a perfect inheritance for the sake of just doing something new. When Michel Parmigiani hands you…
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46003 Vacheron Constantin 222 Midsize
Are you sitting down? I’m about to say three words that don’t get put next to each other often: 222 cream dial. The 1977 222 was made with more dial iterations than people realize today. Most know the slate, which can look a bit navy in certain light, and gold. But, albeit less frequently, you’ll…
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FP Journe Vagabondage III in Pink Gold
Imagine trying to invent an entirely new movement with digital jumping seconds for fun. That’s the madness, manic compulsive obsession, that is FP Journe on full display. If you’ve ever been there, it’s actually kind of a lovely feeling. The Vagabondage series has always felt like the result of a total flow state to me,…
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Charles Frodsham Double Impulse Chronometer
It’s not often discussed in these terms, but in the very early days of watchmaking, before even pocket watches were commonplace, the Swiss looked toward the English as the more established regional watchmaking industry. It was only after John Calvin banned things like dancing and the wearing of jewelry that the Swiss turned their focus…
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