Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222
For the last few years, I’ve not known what to make of the fact that the 222 is in production again, but I think I’ve just come to terms with it. Prior, when asked if I was a Royal Oak or Nautilus person, I’d answer, ‘I’m a 222 person’. And half the time, the reply…
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Farsi Dial 2606-8 Omega Cosmic Complete Calendar
The ref. 2606 Omega Cosmic is a discreetly excellenct, lightly complicated, and often overlooked mid-century masterpiece. At the time, it was the height of the Omega catalogue. It’s one of the more overlooked Omega references, as complete (or casually called triple) calendars are relatively to the latter perpetual calendars. But, as you can clearly see,…
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Honeycomb Dial ‘Ovettone’ 6305 Rolex Datejust
Rolex didn’t have the formula perfectly defined in 1955. They had some brilliant ideas around creating tool watches for professionals to use, but weren’t yet certain how to go about it. We observe wild experimentation around these years with what it meant to be an Explorer, Submariner, Milgauss, Oyster Chronograph (there was no Cosmograph yet),…
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‘Big Eye’ 884100/02 Universal Genève Uni-Compax
Asymmetry exposes flaws. I have a vivid memory from my early years in design school of a professor stating, ‘If you’re going to make it asymmetric, the proportions have to absolutely perfect. Anything less and it will seem accidental.’ History would indicate that Universal Genève got the proportions, and indeed the balance of the dial…
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Cartier Paris 1991 Crash
Walking around any major city with a truly exceptional watch on wrist is a bit like walking down the street holding a Van Gogh above your head. Without wishing to be ostentatious, in many respects you are doing someone a very slight favor by adding a degree of culture to an otherwise very ordinary day (for…
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‘CERN’ Dial 1019 Rolex Milgauss
A 1019 Milgauss with non-lumionus dial is more than rare, it signifies something really rather special historically. It is said that science advances in irregular leaps and bounds rather than consistent steps. Perhaps not by coincidence, the same could be said about Rolex. This particular Milgauss, in my opinion, is one of the most attractive Rolexes…
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3612 Rolex Centenario Coin Watch
Imagine looking at a coin and thinking, ‘I could fit a watch in that’. In the early part of the last century, Joseph Vergely did that. In fact, many did; the coin watch is something of a forgotten trend. Today, trends look like a new dance on TikTok, gluing yourself to a road to save…
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Tropical Dial ‘Ed White’ 105.003-65 Omega Speedmaster
What is it about most modern Speedmasters that feels quite soulless? Is it the imitation of the vintage world which we so often praise? Or is it the Henry Ford circa 2090 production line that is capable of merely printing perfect watches ad infinitum? Or rather, is there not enough consideration to detail? Each is…
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4315 Rolex King Midas in White Gold
There is a very particular quality to all Genta’s work, despite the widely varying portfolio, which science has described. There are several well-replicated studies in psychology which demonstrate that the more frequently we see a face, the more attractively we tend to rate it. The theory is that the more quickly and fluently we process…
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3150 IWC Porsche Design Compass
I’m fairly certain that in the late 70s, IWC and Porsche design did their collaborating in a bar or somewhere ample drink is served. How else do you get to the Ocean 2000, anodized black, and all the fantastic cool-guy aviation chronographs? Herodotus, a Greek historian, reported once that for all important decisions, the ancient…
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