Panda Tudor 79170 Big Block with Graduated 12-Hour Bezel
Few watches will ever experience the fame that the Daytona has gathered in its recent few decades. Perhaps the Nautilus and Royal Oak have seen similar ascensions, but that’s all I can think of with a massive 10 seconds of thought dedicated to the effort. However, there are no other in-house, ‘simplified’ Nautilus (don’t you…
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Berthoud Genève Compur
If you’re a watch collector hardcore, you likely love Universal Geneve. If you’re a bit of a watch obsessive, may be aware some of their movements made their way into watch assemblies under other names. By no means was UG the ETA of their era. However, some sales did take place. One of those was…
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Blancpain Léman Moonphase in Steel
Blancpain and Jean-Claude Biver are often credited with leading the charge of mechanical watchmaking’s return to dominance post-quartz crisis. Defiant ads proclaimed ‘there has has never been a quartz Blancpain and there never will be’. Pieces like the revived Fifty Fathoms, 1735 Grande Complication, and (toward the end of JCB) this Léman Moonphase were meant…
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Unrestored 1940s Movado M90 Chronograph
The Movado M90 is an early two-register chronograph that has largely been consigned to the history books. Recent explosions in value of François Borgel (FB) Patek Tasti Tondis has also pulled up values of M90 and M95 Tasti Tondi case variants. The humble non-FB cased M90 and M95, however, are also exceptional period chronographs. These…
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Early Double-Signed Era Grand Seiko SBGR003
There’s something very majestic about Grand Seiko’s double-signed era. After the SBGR305 introduced GS-only signature dials, independence was solidified. Before that, times were more uncertain. There is a certain lack of confidence or perhaps humility that the double signature implies. A large Seiko at 12 is stealth. If you know watches, you’ll clock the lower…
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Audemars Piguet Quantieme Perpetual 25657 BA
AP’s first Perpetual Quantieme, the 5548, was conceived in secrecy during the height of Switzerland’s quartz crisis. At the time, the marque was struggling and contemplating leaning more on quartz for future models. Three senior watchmakers within AP (Michel Rochat, Daniel Golay, and Wilfred Berney) developed an ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement that would become an…
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Sinn 103 B ST TY Steel Bezel
I generally like to believe that present is better than the past was and that we can make the future better than today. Despite this, I fall for vintage watches over their modern counterparts frequently. Included in that, for the most part, are Sinn. I find something about 1990s Sinn desperately attractive. The tool aesthetic,…
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1968 Seiko Lord Marvel 5740-8020
You may have noticed, but Seiko/GS and hi-beat movements are kind of a thing. The pairing goes together like whisky and chocolate. I say that because the combination is both frequently enjoyed and quite subjectively enjoyed. Many collectors prefer Spring Drive or the uncomplicated SKX/Five flavour. Marmite is the word. But if you do happen…
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Vulcain Cricket Nautical S2321A
Much has been said and written here about modern alarm complications, but it is worth noting that the alarm complication itself has a somewhat more humble origin in commercial diving. Vulcain’s naval pieces of the 1960s rung out some of the first mechanical alarm chimes. Since its introduction, a Swiss benefactor not associated with Vulcain…
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Value Proposition: Silver Sigma IWC 866A Ingenieur
Early Ingenieurs are emblematic of IWC in design and substance. The German side of Switzerland has always prided itself in inventive problem-solving and militant (perhaps a poor choice of adjective) precision. This second generation 866 Ingenieur tethers these brand principles to a sort of bauhausian Mk XI design. What resulted is a quite iconic, useful,…
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