6205, Submariner, 'OCC' Tropical Dial, Steel

Rolex officially announced the Submariner in 1954 at Basel. The ref. 6204, this 6205, and 6200 were all launched simultaneously in 1954, however production of the 6204 had begun earlier in 1953. While the 6204 was the first Submariner, the 6205 is surely one of the most overlooked. Made for one year only in 1954, it is the second so-called ‘Small Crown’ Submariner. However, there were significant changes. This example is particularly interesting, as it is the only currently known 6205 to have ‘Officially Certified Chronometer’ lines printed on the dial under the Submariner line. This is not even to mention the immensely beautiful tropical patina. 

While most agree that the 6204 came first, there is disagreement as to whether the 6200 or 6205 came next. Earliest production 6205 has no Submariner print on the dial, while mid-production introduced the name. Rolex was not yet granted the trademark when the model began. 6205 production spanned both this pencil & lollipop handset to introduction of the Mercedes. Still firmly in the gilt-radium timeline, all correct examples register on a Geiger counter as this does. While most print is gilt on this example, the OCC lines appear to be on top of the lacquer layer as subsequent depth ratings were on references like the 6536. The early bezels of the 6204 & 6205 lack full minute subdivisions with only 5-minute intervals. Red triangles are sometimes seen, but are incorrect as they came later. The 6mm crown features a ‘Brevet’ plus sign, not underline, distinct from latter 6536. Calibre A260 sits inside, same as 6204. The 6205 is a fascinating Submariner as we are still learning about it to this day. A quick search will reveal why as, even over the last decade, so few models have been sold or seen. 

The OCC lines of this dial will be of particular interest to collectors, as the 6205 is not usually thought to have been submitted for chronometer certification. Conventional wisdom holds that the 6538 introduced OCC lines and certification. Yet, in Christies 2013 ‘Important Watches’ sale a comparable ‘Three-Liner’ 6200 (case 32021) which featured OCC lines sold at 485K CHF. That example dated to 1954 also—then the only example known (it sold again at Phillips Geneva XV). This ‘Three-Liner’ 6205 dates to the middle of production in 1954 (case 860XX), slightly after that 6200, and hints toward a different history. 1954 examples of the 6204 with 'Submariner Perpetual' split dials also have been observed with OCC text at 6. All examples—and a few subsequent discoveries amongst collectors—seem to suggest that 'OCC' was introduced within the Submariner earlier than most note. All dating to 1954, these handful of examples are the earliest 'OCC' Submariners known. This second-batch 6205 configuration also has the Submariner line printed very slightly higher than most examples, making room for the OCC lines, slightly above the center point of the 4 & 8 plots. The OCC lines of that Christies 6200 and this 6205 mirror each other and differ from latter 6538 in that the M in 'Chronometer' falls just slightly ahead or left justified of the C in 'Certified'. In later 6538 & 6536 references they appear closer to aligned. The OCC lines here are printed above the lacquer layer comparable and have faded slightly into the gloss layer over the tropical tone with decades of patina, partially lighter in areas but all present.

This 6205 is a category-defining Submariner. The strong and charming tropical tone of its dial is not even its most remarkable feature. This Submariner is amongst the most interesting we’ve ever had the honor to work on, for its beauty but also tiny role in helping to define Rolex history. This is quite simply an incredibly special, very early Submariner. 

This 6205 is in excellent overall condition, particularly considering the age and relevant peers. The case is unrestored, with strong definition in all areas. Its bevels still strong and present. The very early Submariner case 'graining'/brushing on the case side is still present, which is quite remarkable. Between lug engravings are deep, even, and correct. Its case bears number 860XX, dating to later in 1954. This is second-batch production, generally accepted to be 83XXX-89XXX, where first-batch is usually seen within 21XXX-23XXX. The caseback is signed 6205 inside with octopus logo.

The dial is aged with a warm tropical patina to the gloss base. All gilt text is still present. The OCC lines have faded lightly into the lacquer layer, a testament to their original placement. This second-batch 6205 configuration also has the Submariner line printed very slightly higher than most examples, making room for the OCC lines, slightly above the center point of the 4 & 8 plots. The OCC lines of the 2013 sale Christies 6200 and this 6205 mirror each other and differ from latter 6538 in that the M in 'Chronometer' falls just slightly ahead or left justified of the C in 'Certified'. In later 6538 & 6536 references they appear closer to aligned. The OCC lines here are printed above the lacquer layer comparable and have faded slightly into the gloss layer over the tropical tone with decades of patina, partially lighter in areas but all present.

Additionally, the dial and handset register on Geiger. UV grain indicates original radium matching in both the pencil handset and dial. It should be noted the 5 plot shows partial loss.

Its bezel is the correct 5-minute thick division without pearl. The bracelet is a 6636 expanding rivet Oyster dating to the second quarter of 1955 with 64 end links. Its calibre A260 is running well, we've chosen not to service it in order to preserve the dial.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.