2840, Toric Tourbillon, Platinum

The Toric Tourbillon is exemplary of early work from Michel Parmigiani, introduced four years after the founding of Parmigiani Fleurier. This ref. 2840 was the first Tourbillon Parmigiani attempted, with an opened, inverted movement architecture that is somewhat unusual. 

Parmigiani has long enjoyed a low-profile image, under the radar for most and enthusiastically discussed amongst collectors as one of the more intriguing early independent watchmaking efforts. In 1996, Michel Parmigiani set up a small Mesure et Art du Temps in Couvet, where he focused on restoration. Over time, he began taking on requests from clients for ground-up watchmaking, using that opportunity to train some of the world’s best watchmakers you know today such as Kari Voutilainen and Raúl Pagès. 

The Toric collection was designed to follow tenets from both classical Roman architecture and Abraham-Louis Breguet. The designs include dual-stepped bezels with intricate knurling, spaded handsets, and traditional Genevan finishing techniques. Early models of Parmigiani relied on unusual ébauches, as is the case here. The Tourbillon began as a GP ‘Three Bridges’ 9900 ébauche, intended for pocket watches, an observatory calibre that won the overall Neuchatêl prize in 1911. Parmigiani then invented the architecture, openworked it, and created his own beautifully finished bridges, oversized jewels, and unique tourbillon cage. Everything finished front and back was finished traditionally from hand anglage to broad flat Côtes de Genève. Each minute dot is drilled on a brushed chapter ring. Interestingly, as a result of this architecture, the minute hand lies below the hour hand. The Tourbillon was then cased at 40mm in the traditional Parmigiani case style. The Tourbillon was only ever produced in pink gold and this platinum. 

The initial retail price of the Toric Tourbillon in platinum was 170,000 CHF in 2000, adjusted for inflation that’s about 210,000 CHF today. It was intended to be the halo product of the brand. To Parmigiani’s own beliefs, these watches were designed and made as artworks with little or no regard for the market or its thinness. As Parmigiani operated a separate restoration and manufacture which many other brands utilized, the business was more financially secure than many other independents of the time. This allowed Michel to express his full artistic desires in these early years. They were creations for creation’s own sake. 

The Toric Tourbillon fully expresses the distinct style Michel Parmigiani intended. From the repeating Torus shape to its impressively mirror-finished conical tourbillon bridge or the red 10-second tourbillon track at 6, the Tourbillon repeatedly impresses on close observation. It wears remarkably flat with a classical and imposing stance, almost pebble-like from a distance. In many ways, it is some of the most pure, intentional watchmaking which existed in the year 2000. In the words of Voutilainen, Michel was a master of ‘everything they don’t teach you at watchmaking school.’ That much is evident to those who wear the Toric Tourbillon. 

This 2840 presents in remarkably strong condition. Beginning with the case, its edges are very proud and defined. We believe the case is untouched, given the lug shape and engravings. The handset shows no signs of interference under loupe. The edges of the knurled bezels are both very strong and sharp. Its calibre PF280 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes with its original box, strap, and pin buckle but without papers.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.