5065J, Aquanaut, Tritium Dial, Yellow Gold

One short year after launch of the ref. 5060 Aquanaut in 1997, Patek Philippe’s catalogue expanded to include the ‘Jumbo’. The Jumbo’s 38mm case has since found favor with collectors as its more contemporary proportions align with preferences today. These earliest references established the model’s DNA with their rounded octagonal cases and ‘grenade’ dials. But while steel has always been the natural language of the Aquanaut, a smaller batch of early pieces were crafted in precious metal. Gold was introduced to the Jumbo in 1999. This is an early, tritium dial Jumbo ref. 5065J. For many collectors, it is the most luxurious variant of Aquanaut which has ever been made. This small run of Aquanauts is made even more sumptuous by a golden tritium dial, a point of warmth only vintage can offer. The combination of warm yellow gold and patinated tritium hour markers is a deeply pleasing aesthetic. 

The first Aquanaut repurposed Genta’s Nautilus through a youthful lens on rubber strap. Never confirmed, it is rumored that the model was first commissioned from high level military officers to Stern, supposedly inspiring both the utilitarian design and 'grenade' pattern adorning the dial and strap. The rubber strap took one full year of development, comprising twenty materials in its composite and fully resistant to salt water, UV deterioration, and bacteria. One short year later, the Aquanaut line expanded into three references all heavily collected today: the ‘Ladies’ 5064 at 34mm in quartz, the 5066 (an evolution of the original size but now with an exhibition caseback), and this ‘Jumbo’ 5065 at 38mm also now with exhibition caseback. 

That back reveals the full-size, self-wound calibre 315 SC with its 29 jewels, floating bridges finished with Côtes de Genève, Gyromax balance adjusted in 5 positions, and a solid gold rotor engraved with the Calatrava cross. It is fittingly utilitarian, but still beautiful enough to reward close study and proudly displays a Geneva Seal. Its case sports contrasting brushing and mirrored surfaces, with subtleties like bezel edges that are easily lost over time, present here.

The 5066 and 5065 are considered the archetypal vintage or perhaps neo-vintage Aquanauts, produced from '98 until '06. Their widespread success saw the introduction of different metals and bracelet options. But the magic of these original designs was in large part down to tritium, a warmth which was lost halfway through 5065 production. Indeed, today many 5065 which once were tritium now have service Luminova hands or even dials. It is not so here, as this example has survived beautifully-preserved with both dial and hands in tritium, what collectors seek. 

The yellow gold Jumbo was only introduced in ’99, and already by 2003 Luminova components were seen in production, leaving just a narrow window of examples this beautiful—most of which haven’t survived. This 2001, full set example is a dream example, a beautifully preserved case featuring its original tritium dial and hands, a symphony in warmth. 

This 5065J presents in excellent condition overall. The case is extremely sharp, only sporting light superficial surface wear commensurate with age. It original brushed sides, bezel edges, and lug proportions are all preserved perfectly. There are no significant marks. Its dial is aged to a deep tan tritium, matched in the handset. The hands are original to the watch and not service replacements. It comes on its original rubber strap, which is uncut. Further, this example includes a green strap as well. The watch comes with its original deployant clasp, Certificate or Origin, all original papers a receipt from Wempe, and Box. The calibre 315 SC is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It is a dream collector's example.

This example is modelled on a larger than average sized 7.4-inch wrist.