25573BA, Tiffany & Co Dial Day-Date, Yellow Gold

There are surprisingly few Tiffany-signed Audemars Piguet as relative to Rolex or Patek Philippe. Mostly, we see earlier and neo-vintage era Royal Oaks, the occasional late mid-century Calatrava, and one known 5516. That's really about it, and even then the Royal Oaks are scarce and far between. Audemars Piguet are known for one thing: that Royal Oak. But peer behind that curtain and there's a world of refined vintage offerings waiting to meet you. This 25573 offers an elegant view to that world and is the only currently known Tiffany-signed dial in gold.

In 1982, AP had a more classic idea of what a Day-Date could be. The 25573 was released alongside its Royal Oak equivalent reference 25572 in late 1982/early 1983, the first non-perpetual AP made to display a Day and Date. The oversized subdials earned the Royal Oak the nickname 'The Owl', where we've heard this referred to as the 'Sartorial Owl' occasionally. Fitting, as it is the more formal counter to the Royal Oak's sporting side. This is one of the most elegant 80s AP offerings, a watch that blurs two lines: the line between neo and true vintage, as well as the line between complication and dress.

This example differs from all other we've seen in two ways. First, the obvious: this is the only known Tiffany-signed 25573 to date. Second, it's also the only known example with a full gold dial. All other 25573 are in two-tone or a white/cream enamel. This is very likely an entirely unique piece, and does include an extract issued in '21.

The ultra-thin 34mm case sports classic lugs and a flat profile, thanks to a JLC ébauche calibre 2224/2810. Despite being self-winding, the movement is just 4.5mm thin which gives the aesthetic impression of a svelte, manual dress watch. As this watch is almost entirely gold dial with a very thin stepped bezel, it does wear millimeter or two larger than its size would suggest.

It is details that differentiate vintage AP in all models. The block AP signature, Swiss only at 6, Tiffany & Co line, gold dial, and blued steel hands all make this a symphony in the best of AP's classic aesthetic. This Day-Date is particularly impressive, but even moreso testament to the eye for refinement that old-school AP held. This is a reminder of those literally golden times, arguably the most beautiful 25573 specification we'll ever see and well-preserved. This is likely not ever going to be a repeatable proposition.

This 25573 presents in excellent condition. The case is full, its hallmarks retain sharp edges and the lugs are defined. Caseback serial engravings are deep (one digit has been removed for security). The midcase also bears a slight rose oxidation. Its dial displays clear print and text in all applications. The Tiffany line is perfect with only light patina under loupe. The radially brushed subdials have a hint of grained patina in their centers. There is a tiny bit of print missing in just one section of the railroad minute track above 12.  The watch is running beautifully in spec on our timing equipment. The strap it wears, and is sold on, is a custom made chocolate calf suede from Atelier du Bracelet Parisien. It comes with an AP Extract of Archive issued in '21, suede AP service pouch, and its original pin buckle.

This watch is modelled on an average sized 6.6 inch wrist.