1803, ‘Non-Luminous, Doorstop’ Dial Day-Date, White Gold

A 1960s Day-Date in white precious metal is just about the ultimate in discreet opulence as far as vintage is concerned. This 1966 ref. 1803 in white gold is one of the most adaptable and classic looks in all of vintage Rolex, not just for its 36mm case but also the monochromatic aesthetic. Moreover, this soleil dial sports desirable early 'doorstop' indices and is entirely non-luminous (hands as well). Its bracelet is also one of the earliest examples of the concealed President clasp. Altogether this 1803 is a classic of the genre, sort of the polar counter to a diamond Stella dial in yellow gold, proving just how subtle a Day-Date can be.

The 1803 was the third generation of Day-Date and where the classic design really found its footing. Introduced in 1960 and in production for two decades, it was one of the most successful Rolex products ever. The innovative Day-Date complication became inextricably coupled to status thanks in large part to President Lyndon B Johnson wearing one. Rolex leaned into this heavily in period advertising, a 1966 ad pictured a red phone in the hand of a suit-wearing arm with a Day-Date on wrist and text which simply stated, ‘The president’s watch.’ The Day-Date quickly became the 'it' watch of the 1960's movie stars, jet set, and world leaders.

The 1803's hallmark is a 'pie-pan' shaped dial, which did not survive the transition to 18038 in 1978. It also housed two movements, first the automatic calibre 1555 and then in 1965 this 1556 which upped the beat rate from 18000 to 19600 vph, for no obvious reason. Then in 1972 it got a hacking seconds, but this example predates that. It should also be noted that this calibre 1556 also predates quickset. For many, the dream would be a pie-pan dial with quickset, but the reality is that you have to choose. This example is the ultimate aesthetic for many, it just asks for a little extra effort in setting in return.

It is thought that most non-luminous Day-Date and Datejust dials were made for Eastern countries, which held very restrictive import laws around luminescent materials. Rather confusingly, Rolex dial blanks were often still printed T SWISS T, but it is entirely correct for examples with non-luminous dials and hands to still bear tritium signatures in this era. This dial doubles down on the vintage flavor with two doorstop markers, a signature of early vintage Day-Date production not seen anywhere and quite a bit less common than straight indices all-around. It's one of the most decidedly 60s and most classic looking Day-Dates you'll find, a watch fit for a leader that doesn't feel the need to shout.

This 1803 presents in excellent overall condition. Its dial and hands are both non-luminous, so less to worry about going wrong to start. But then there's no sign of damage anywhere, even under loupe. Its printed script is all totally clear, and there's just the subtlest hint of patina on its Day and Date discs. The case sports strong bevels and deep engravings for its 1.37M serial and hallmarks. The bezel is still quite sharp as well. There's an even and consistent degree of surface wear across the watch and bracelet, almost entirely hairlines. That level of wear is matched in its 8385 bracelet, which bears a light to moderate level of stretch commensurate with age. Polished center links have a slight bit of gold oxidation in places, which would polish off easily though we wouldn't advise it. The calibre 1556 is running well in spec and has been serviced recently.

This watch is modeled on a relatively large 7.7 inch wrist.