1655, Explorer II, Steel

Ref. 1655 began the Explorer II as a model in 1971, not to replace the Explorer but augment it. Initially, the 1655 did not track two time zones. It tracked the same time in both 12 and a fixed 24-hour scale to distinguish between day and night, only useful for those exploring in either constant darkness or light such as caves or the arctic. The 1655 is one of the more esoteric four-digit Professional Rolex models, anachronistic with unrivaled charming 70s aesthetic, born out a real need in the field. The large orange hand, which has seen the 1655 garner the nickname ‘Freccione’ or large arrow. 

The 1655 was not a successful model for Rolex in period, leading to a relatively quick update to the 16550 in 1985 with an independently jumping hour hand. However, this bold design with a bright orange 24-hour hand has come to be loved world-over in the years following, since reference by not just Rolex themselves in the modern Explorer II but many other brands, including Tudor. The combination of 24-hour functionality and dependable Oyster case found its intended audience. The Explorer II was worn unsponsored in period by mountaineer Reinhold Messner (first solo ascent of Everest) and Jean François Pernette (speleologist), but has since been sported by Alain Hubert (world-record Antarctic time), Jean Troillet (first man to snowboard Everest), and Ed Viesturs (only American to climb all 14 8-thousander peaks). 

The 1655 is very much emblematic of four-digit production methods, evolving over 5 ‘marks’ through its production. This Mark 2 features what is often called a ‘Frog Foot’ coronet for its splayed and concave points. Only the Mark 1 featured a straight seconds hand, where this lollipop came shortly after. It has often been described as funky, and is one of few Rolex models that does have a design that feels distinctly 70s. That’s a good thing in this instance, there is an inherent beauty to the Freccione that, while 70s, has stood the test of time. 

In the years following, the 1655 has grown to be one of the most desirable and eccentric four-digit sport models. Collectors adore it for its unusual design, 24-hour bezel, and rare showing of vibrant color within true vintage Rolex. In simple words, it is one of the most fun, whimsical Rolex offerings that existed pre-1980. While made for purpose, it is today adored for its aesthetic—unlike anything before or since.

This 1655 dates to 1975 and remains in remarkably strong condition. Its case is untouched by either time or a polishing wheel. The dial has aged to a remarkable deep cream, verging on pumpkin tone. Its bezel is the corrected centered thick font variant for its Mark 2 dial. The 78360 bracelet dates to 1975 as well. The calibre 1575 is running well in specification on our timing equipment, service history unknown. Unbelievably, this example survives with its full set, including papers noting sale in '78.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.