Before Cartier became fully married to quartz in the late 80s and well before the CPCP-era that resurrected their mechanical watchmaking, one or two mechanical Santos slipped through the cracks, hanging on for dear life. One is the ref. 2960, a large-cased Carrée (french for square, or straight-lugged) Santos with...

The first time you lay eyes on this Mido, it’s almost as if it’s playing a trick on you like some punk kid. Take a second, it’ll come to you. There are two chronograph pushers. And zero subdials. Huh? In much the same way that some early 60s dive watches...

At a collector meetup last year, I encountered a very tan, thin, well-dressed Italian man. He had the kind of skin that let you know he’d spent every day of summer strolling around outside Capri. His glasses were Tom Ford. The calfskin boots he wore had been on foot at...

To some, this is one of the most blasphemous watches to come out of Le Brassus. It wears the name Royal Oak, but wasn’t designed by Genta. It’s not even a mechanical watch, no, it hails from the height of quartz. The ref. 6005 Rectangular Royal Oak is part uncanny...

In watches, as most luxuries, there is often an asymptotic relationship between the amount a watch commands and the extra value you receive. In tangible terms, it means this: a 20K watch will not give you twice the enjoyment of a 10K watch, often it may give you about 1.5x...

If you didn’t know watches, you’d probably think being nicknamed ‘frying pan’ was an insult. But when Padellone (the Italian) precedes Patek Philippe, you’re looking at what might just be the most elegant perpetual calendar ever. At the very least, it was the world’s first scaled production, self-wound perpetual calendar....

China has 160 cities with over a million people. Their intense public transport spending has meant the entire country is connected by high speed rail, cars are not needed. China is producing everything for everyone, everywhere. The more mathematically minded, on the spectrum-types are working extremely hard (perhaps at gunpoint?)...

The subtlety of one color can make a watch. I feel, perhaps too strongly, that British racing green may in fact be the classiest hue to ever exist, full stop. This isn’t some childish James Bond Aston fascination or anglophilic pandering, no. On its own merits, the precise deep green...

It is an unfortunate truth that, in our little world, hommage is often a dirty word. This doesn’t have to be the case, it’s just what happens when inspiration is taken lazily. Too many companies can easily copy design elements, grab a Miyota, and call it a day. But the...

At the risk of being terribly passé, I’m about to quote myself. Sorry. In writing about about different 1803 a few months back, I said that ‘The joys of Rolex Day-Date collecting are in many ways like the joys of mild alcoholism. In both, the satisfaction is to be found...

Before Rolex had named anything the Daytona, before Paul Newman had a salad dressing or Cosmograph named after him, and before the Speedmaster had gone to the moon, there weren’t many renown chronographs. In fact, the wrist-worn chronograph was really only gaining popularity as a thing in the decade previous....

James May, an intelligent man, once stated that ‘No one truly understands electricity.’ He’s right. I have a degree in physics. I can describe its effects, predict and calculate ohms, probably wire a house with some effort, but at a certain level we all have to have faith that there...

When Rolex turns to you for expertise, you’re doing something right. That was role of Comex in 1970, a French dive company that aligned well with Rolex’s aims to push the Submariner to new depths. The strategic partnership was simple: Rolex provided Submariners and Sea-Dwellers to Comex free of cost...

Omega gave the world the 861 Speedmaster in 1968. Despite many loupe-carrying nerds decrying the changover from column wheel to cam switching, the movement proved so effective for Omega that it remained in production effectively unaltered until 1992. And even then, the change wasn’t huge moving the 1861. Effectively, you...

It’s really not often that the rear of a watch without a display back is more captivating than dial-side. It’s all a bit Kim K if you know what I mean. But that’s about all this Explorer II shares in common with the Kardashians, because otherwise this one of the...

Trigger warning here, I’m about to assault an icon. I’ve always found the name Datejust a bit hilariously apologetic. It’s as if Hans himself went, ‘Well, we can do a Day-Date, but this one is just a date, sincerest apologies.’ Make no mistake, any DJ is an excellent watch. But...

Few watches tell the world that you know exactly what you’re doing like an FB-cased M95. When one has spent years immersed in the vintage world, they start recognizing shared componentry. You recognize a Singer made dial. You know that Zodiac is running a Valjoux 7734. And you know that...

There aren’t many truly underrated references in Omega’s back catalogue anymore. Every collector knows and loves the early Seamasters, Ultraman 145.012s, Mad Men Constellations, hell even Schumacher’s Daytona is on the rise these days. However, amongst the dazzling base 1000 bezeled 2915 Speedmasters and tantalizingly-lollipopped 2913 Seamaster 300s, it’s easy...