Before the first Zeitwerk, Vagabondage, or Urwerk, Vacheron Constantin went out on a limb with a very unique time display. It was 1994 and Audemars Piguet had just released the Star Wheel. Where the inspiration for the Star Wheel came from a 17th c. Papal clock, VC had an idea...

This was the start of the screw down Daytona pusher. Okay, maybe not the very start, it’s not a Solo, but reference-wise with millerighes (more on that later). This is the ref. 6240 and it would not be a stretch to say that all screw-down Daytonas exist because of this...

This is a 1016, which as we all know is the answer to every possible watch question. However, it’s a very peculiar sort. It’s the sort of 1016 for a collector who has already owned a 1016, who then looks down one day and thinks, ‘Yes, this is lovely, but...

In 1992, Vacheron Constantin launched what they called the 7 marvels: 7 technically or artistically exceptional new efforts. One of them was this ref. 49005, Vacheron’s first Perpetual Calendar Chronograph and answer to the 3970. Except where only two known 3970s were made with salmon dials (one formerly owned by...

The 3940 has gone through a bit of a transition in the last 5 years, from simply being the discontinued QP to being recognized as, arguably but with significant consensus, the sole reference which most defines the modern era and reinvigorated the marque. However, no one seems quite able to...

In the below image, I would happily wear the watch on the left every day for the rest of my life. The watch on the right, not so much. To the untrained eye, they are the same watch. To us, they are as different as Macallan is to Budweiser, despite...

Meteorites are perpetually traveling, searching around through spacetime before eventually striking a larger body like Earth. Now, there are surprisingly few elegant-refined leaning GMT offerings. There are endless GMT/travel watches which scream, ‘I’m a professional doing serious things, manly tool watch things.’ But really only a handful that offer old-style...

This is not a normal Royal Oak QP. It’s the RD2, very possibly the last watchmaking-first complicated Royal Oak from Audemars Piguet which placed emphasis on their technical ability rather than their marketing ability. It looks like a Royal Oak that’s picked up intermittent fasting as a hobby, still 41mm...

It was a question, less than a decade ago, if the very top end of A. Lange & Söhne could ever seriously challenge the apex complicated models of Patek Philippe. The comparison is useless, the two manufactures approach watchmaking with such distinct philosophies. But, if there were any remaining doubt,...

John Player Special doesn’t represent an old cigarette manufacture or even Lotus F1 car to watch collectors. JPS is the apex, or at very least an apex, of Daytona collecting. The JPS is nothing more than a black Paul Newman dial with gold subs and chapter ring, a color mix...

In 1989, when independent watchmaker was more a slur rather than ambitious height, there was a company called THA. THA (short for Applied Watchmaking Techniques in French) was founded by a young FP Journe, Vianney Halter, and Denis Flageollet of De Bethune, eventually including Nicolas Court of Janvier SA. The...

Rattrapantes aren’t easy, that should be self-evident. But only two manufactures have attempted to coax a Lemania 2310 ébauche, or 2320 (rather as it’s the two-counter version) here, to split seconds: Patek Philippe in the 5004 and Breguet. Everyone knows the 5004 and its Lemania-based beauty, a monumental achievement. Yet...

Some of the sickest, most historically significant Daytonas in the world don’t say Daytona anywhere on them. But only a handful are so important that they don’t even say Rolex. Rolex did not bow this deeply for Tiffany, Beyer, or Assad. Rolex only agreed to make dials that didn’t say...

The Milgauss is dead. Except, if you love Rolex, you’ll know the best core scientific Rolex offering was never called Z-Blue. It was called 6541 or maybe 6543. However, if you’ve glanced recent auction results to find the last great 6541 hammered at 2.5M, don’t lose hope. The 1019 has...

Fewer than 5 years ago, this was a 50K (USD) Day-Date. Today, this is a 200K Day-Date. It is a stone dial, but not one you’re likely to see ever, known as coral. This is not to be confused with coral-red Stella dials, this is coral stone. The tones of...

The Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar has always been the unobvious choice. AP were first to both the post-quartz revolution QP and later integrating that QP with a sports case in the 25554 in 1983. They invented the category. Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin only brought perpetual calendars to their sports...

Patek Philippe only has the reputation today that can see it ‘get away’ with things like the rainbow minute-repeating Aquanauts because of the reputation it built with watches like the 5004. In 1994, Patek Philippe faced a question. They’d successfully brought high complication to meet serial production, in a way...

Shaped watches are often overlooked and there might be no case more unjustly maligned than the Patek Philippe 5040. The 5040 is the lesser famous Don Swayze to the 3940’s Patrick Swayze. Why is that? This is a micro-rotor cal 240Q perpetual calendar, same as the 3940, in a Tortue-like...