De Bethune DB25 White Night

I just adore, or rather I mean love, when independents take a step from impressing the world, flashing technical innovation and bold design cues, to demonstrate their ability through restrained or classic sensiblities. Dufour has the Simplicity. Roger Smith the Series I. Rexhep the Chronometre Contemporain. De Bethune, well this may be as close as they’ve ever come to a classical spaceship: the DB25 ‘White Night’.

You don’t tend to associate DB with Breguet pomme hands, but my god do they fit. The details dial-side you just have to sit and drink in. Starting with that stark opaline expanse, DB put a lot of effort into depth. This dial has not only deep shadows under the signature due to enamel layers, but a ring of heat-blued titanium with set hours in gold. All this in the 44mm rose gold DB25 case with those exquisite hollow lugs. Where many brands boast about small technical details, the White Night is powered by a 287 component two-hand movement with six day reserve through dual mainspring barrels, silicon escapement, and titanium balance with platinum weights.

The White Night is one of the independent watches which was released right around the time I was first getting truly deep in watches, 2014 or so. I can remember very clearly thinking ‘damn, that is lovely.’ Since then, it’s been interesting to watch it fade into obscurity and then, just recently, resurface. I’d say it’s only in the past year or two that I’ve been starting to hear collectors and enthusiasts alike reference midnight blue & white night watches as speculative ‘future classics’, whatever that means. I don’t mean to be dismissive, only point out that I have no idea what the hype monster will latch onto next. The DB25 stands on its own merits firmly, without regard to public opinion. I find it is often in a brand’s most simple offerings that the watchmaker’s voice speaks most clearly, such is the case with this futurist technical marvel.

This example has nothing off. The case shows light surface wear only in direct light. Its dial and movement appear perfect as expected. It comes with a full set from a well-regarded retailer.

Find the White Night here from Watch4moi for 85000 USD.