3521 IWC 'JLC' Ingenieur

1990s IWC was daring, cerebral, and of utmost quality. They were all guns blazing thanks to Blümlein and the mid-sized Ingenieur is no exception. This is the ref. 3521, sometimes called the ‘JLC’ Ingenieur for obvious reasons, the 887/2 ébauche, but it is perhaps most notable as the first COSC certified Ingenieur ever. Its case is a different world to the 1832 Jumbo, in diameter and thinness. This was a mechanical masterpiece released when quartz still ruled all. And it’s been vastly overlooked ever since.

Blümlein was put in charge of LMH in 1980, who had just acquired both JLC and IWC. But it didn’t start that way. Of all the 25 references, this is the fifth and final Ingenieur SL, which was the only to use a JLC ébauche. IWC’s own 3508 accomplished its wild 500K A/m through a nobium balance. And then somehow its replacement was ‘merely’ 80K A/m. But the truth is more impressive than headlines. In order to meet the COSC standards, gone was the ETA base. To replace it, IWC, like most, rang JLC. So, no, you’re not getting a 500K a-mag rating. But you are getting a JLC 889 ébauche, which is an all-around more robust bit of kit and even finished like you’d hope. Moreover, to aid in the quest to shield magnetism, the rotor weight is solid 950 platinum. This generation was, in fact, the opposite of a corner-cutting exercise, but the headlines don’t tell that story.

Over all automatic Ingenieur SL references, as in ever, the best estimate put together so far by our friends at @siemswatches put total production around 5000-6000 examples. Most estimate that there are probably fewer than 1500 of these chronometer-ref. 3521s. Many regard the original Royal Oak, ref. 5402, a somewhat rare watch, and that was made in 6050 examples. A great comparably midsized 14970ST, which uses the exact same JLC 889 ébauche, is just under 30K or thereabouts today. IWC’s 3521 won’t trouble you for 1/3 of that. It’s one of few integrated bracelet pieces I can wholeheartedly recommend at a somewhat accessible value. Everyone loves the mid-sized Ingenieur because it’s a watch of the people and makes no sacrifices whatsoever. As long as you can rock something that wears like 35mm, there are no drawbacks. 

This is probably the best black dial 3521 I've ever seen in the market. The case is sharp with the correctly misaligned bezel. The tritium is honest and even. Its text is all lovely. I barely see the lightest signs of ever having been worn. It comes with a complete set, which you almost never see here, from a well-regarded Spanish retailer.