‘Graph Paper’ 3506 IWC Ingenieur SL


IWC is no little known secret amongst the German cognoscenti; enthusiasts world-over are aware of their robust history. However, even with relatively strong scholarship and attention, one or two references may still slip through the proverbial cracks. In fact, I think IWC probably has at least one watch in just about every size, style, and…

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H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback LE


Watch releases innovative or beautiful enough to take your breath away are few and far between. Seeing a small, modern independent execute both arts while being funky enough to remind one of the 1970s Omega Flightmaster or Sinn 142 is another thing entirely. In the casual horologist zeitgeist, H. Moser & Cie are best known…

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Black 42052 Vacheron Constantin Overseas


There is a particular friction I feel when I see 3700 Nautilus regularly trading hands above 200K. You see, I am a firm believer that one should purchase only what speaks to their soul. Rational watch purchasing is no way to live. Furthermore, I understand the appeal of the Nautilus line. History’s most storied watchmaker…

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Vacheron Constantin Square 222 Automatic


Unconventional, obscure, and shrouded in mystery, the square 222 is is something of a footnote today. It is rare to come across an original shape 222 in steel, midsized or jumbo. This unassuming reference 46004 is an even less common sight. Most give it a pass for its mildly undersized proportions at 31x38mm, however square…

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IWC Ingenieur Jumbo SL 1832


IWC has this sort of unapologetically tool-competent aesthetic which may have culminated in this: the 1832 Ingenieur. I can be fairly accused of being overly fond of the more svelte 666AD, an antimagnetic dress which was grandfather to the integrated sports offering shown here. However, that watch lacks the magical pen of Genta. The 1832…

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IWC Porsche Design Ocean 2000


When I say integrated sports watch, you almost imagine a RO, Nautilus, or Overseas. You almost certainly do not imagine a Laureato, Octo Finissimo (despite it holding all the records today), or this: an imaginative 1980s diver with a full integrated titanium bracelet. This is a under-hyped, comparatively economic, materially innovative, 1980s diver with tritium…

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Vacheron Constantin 222 in Steel, Midsized


The oft-forgotten third musketeer in the original steel sports holy trinity, Vacheron’s 222 has seen increasing limelight in the wake of recent 5711 madness. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve wanted to shout ‘but what about the 222 or Overseas?!’ into the ether whilst reading those Nautilus and Royal Oak grey-market-value articles that…

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AP Royal Oak Extra-Thin ‘Salmon Jumbo’ 15202BC


Audemars Piguet has never shied away from limited releases. There are boutique Royal Oaks, commemorative Royal Oaks, and custom-order Royal Oaks from early in the model’s history. Modern limited releases usually vary in dial hue or material. Today’s feature changes both. The white gold and salmon 15202BC was released in 2019 as a bit of…

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Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800 in Yellow Gold


The 45 year-old Nautilus has never looked better. Genta, in his Nautilus and Royal Oak designs, defined a half-century of wristwear. It would not be hyperbole to declare the Nautilus in amongst the top three most important designs of the last century. This reference 3800 is a marginally more svelt 3700 at 37.5mm. That proportion…

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Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tadao Ando Ceramic LE


In an industry dominated by vintage romanticism, it is a breath of fresh air to see a design unashamedly focussed on the future with a laser-like precision. Watches and Wonders brought many new and attractive designs to the market, but perhaps none appealed so strongly to me as this: the Tadao Ando Ceramic Octo (otherwise…

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