Czapek Antarctique Passage de Drake


Last year, I had the chance to have a short chat with one of Czapek’s three founders. Straight away, I asked him the query I always do when I don’t really understand a brand, ‘Can you tell me a little about this effort, why it needs to exist, and what it means to you?’ I…

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3521 IWC Ingenieur


Despite all the admiration, scholarship, and even Jack Forster’s article in the last year, the 3521 remains an alternative and yet-to-be-fully-appreciated modern classic. Whatever it means precisely to be a modern classic, I know not. But it seems to me as if the category were invented for these Ingenieurs. This is a Germanic chunk of…

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44018 Vacheron Constantin 222 Jumbo in YG


I have spilled a great deal of ink already on behalf of my pick from the original ‘holy trinity’. However, in light of the recent Les Historiques reissue, an original 222 is now a different proposition. When a manufacture shines a bright light on the dark, dusty corners of their back catalogue, there are secondary…

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3800/1J Yellow Gold Patek Philippe Nautilus


What ink remains to be spilled on behalf of the 3800 which has not been spilled already? I would suggest that the jar is on its side, hardened, and evaporated. Therefore, my work here is a bit redundant. However, I defy one to find a worn gold-on-gold 3800 this charming and not feel compelled to…

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Dark ‘Graph Paper’ 3506 IWC Ingenieur SL


Last month, I featured a light-dial 3506 in a blind attempt to describe my admiration for the ‘slim’ case Genta Ingenieur SL. That article proved I was in good company, as many echoed the same sentiment. Since then, I have not been able to get that watch out of my head. So, despite striving to…

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363.068 A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus


Somehow oxymoron doesn’t quite cover it. The lauded German manufacture synonymous with the very height of haute horology is now making a sports watch sold on rubber. I just hope they’re not 20 years too late. The Odysseus is as impressive as it is divisive, arguably the most contentious release of the last decade. I…

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46003 Vacheron Constantin 222 in Yellow Gold


Every damn time I spot an Overseas, I am reminded how desperately I need a 222 in my life. The oft-forgotten third musketeer in the original steel sports holy trinity, Vacheron’s 222 has seen increasing limelight in the wake of recent 5711 madness. I cannot tell you how many times I’ve wanted to shout ‘but…

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2960 Cartier Santos Carrée


Not all that is desirable in Cartier is CPCP, vintage Tank, Crash, or Cintrée. Though many collectors may treat it as such, Cartier’s long and storied history has innumerable alternative high points. In the mid 70s, Cartier began to see the Santos line as potential sporting alternative to the integrated Genta steel which was gaining…

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Tropical 5402 C-Series AP Royal Oak


I swore that despite the Royal Oak’s 50th this week I would not join the party. This not because I have anything against it, quite the contrary. Rather, that I aim to feature whatever is most interesting in the market at any given time. Surely, the odds of an all-time RO surfacing during the week…

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‘Graph Paper’ 3506 IWC Ingenieur SL


IWC is no little known secret amongst the German cognoscenti; enthusiasts world-over are aware of their robust history. However, even with relatively strong scholarship and attention, one or two references may still slip through the proverbial cracks. In fact, I think IWC probably has at least one watch in just about every size, style, and…

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