Posts Tagged ‘Independent Watchmaking’
Piece Unique Roger W. Smith Series I
With every day that passes, the horological marketplace which consumes my attention becomes a more diverse and interesting place. It would be callous of me not to discuss this development. A Collected Man, the long established leader in independent retail, recently changed the game by announcing ‘exceptional’ auctions. These single lot auctions will exist to…
Read More1 of 10 Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor in Black Titanium
Romain Gauthier make some of the most intimidating watches of any modern independent. This is due to their immense finishing, masculine proportion, precise manufacturing, and, perhaps most of all, industrial aesthetic. There’s also the fact that RG produce just a few dozen watches per year, far fewer than almost everyone else. Seeing one in the…
Read MorePhilippe Dufour Simplicity
What ink remains to be spilled on behalf of the Simplicity? This is it, as good as watchmaking gets, independent or otherwise. Where Patek Philippe are undisputed masters of their craft, that is an effort of some 1600 people to elevate watchmaking to an art. The Simplicity is one man’s effort to distill heaven into…
Read MoreFP Journe Chronomètre Bleu Byblos
This is a rare and eccentric showing of playfulness from Mr Journe, not likely to be repeated. Like much of Journe’s work, there is a story behind the visually striking watchmaking on display. This partially openworked dial is not executed in a remotely traditional way. In addition, it is one of just a few watches…
Read More2147 Daniel Roth Lemania Skeleton Chronograph
For being one of the most influential independent watchmakers to have ever walked the Earth, Daniel Roth is today not a part of the discourse in the way that Journe, Voutilainen, MB&F, or even Akrivia are. This, I suspect, is because Roth is not easily understood immediately; Roth requires study. There are multiple eras of…
Read More1 of 10 ‘London Edition’ Urban Jürgensen Big 8
The subtlety of one color can make a watch. I feel, perhaps too strongly, that British racing green may in fact be the classiest hue to ever exist, full stop. This isn’t some childish James Bond Aston fascination or anglophilic pandering, no. On its own merits, the precise deep green with just a hint of…
Read More1 of 25 Anthracite Moritz Grossmann Hamatic Vintage
It’s not often us hardcore watch enthusiasts are treated to an entirely new winding mechanism, much less one created with beauty in mind. While Rolex fusses with moving their crowns from one side to the other, ingenious German independent Moritz Grossmann has challenged the very fundamentals of the automatic calibre with a contemporary take on…
Read MoreGrönefeld 1941 Eight Second Remontoire in Steel
Independent watches which defy mechanic and design trends often impress on a very deep level. However, not all of these more audacious efforts remain front of mind or desire as time evolves. The 1941 Remontoire has not only crystalized Grönefeld’s deserved reputation as among the very best independent watchmakers, but, for many including myself, proven…
Read MoreDB28TRS De Bethune Tourbillon
The DB28 is modern De Bethune’s halo offering. It has won all the awards, sustained market interest, and was perhaps the brand’s most audacious project of all time. In the wake of that success, De Bethune have been iterating and, year on year, offering slightly more niche DB28s in smaller quantities. De Bethune are an…
Read MoreRose-on-Rose FP Journe Centigraphe Souverain
For many years, FP Journe’s Centigraphe remained one of the finest ever chronograph movements to be largely unrecognized, speaking volumes to François-Paul’s maniacal approach to complication but minimally popular. The concept was borne between conversation between FP and Jean Todt (then executive at Scuderia Ferrari and later president of the FIA), but something François-Paul had…
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