Posts Tagged ‘Dive’
The First Titanium Sinn: 8820
No, this isn’t a Tudor P01. It’s something a little cooler, though I love the unique Black Bay. Sinn, the marque synonymous with tough-as-nails, legible tool watches, had to start somewhere. Granted, this isn’t the start of Sinn. It isn’t even the start of Sinn tool watches. But it is the first titanium watch. This…
Read MoreJenny Accurist Super Submarino
Watchmaker Jenny created a monocoque cases designed for Valjoux movements in the early 60s. The patent design was named ‘Monobloc Triple-Safe’. The brand licensed their tech to Jacques Monnat, Dugena, Ollech & Wajs, Haste, Jacquet Droz, Fortis, Aquadive and Philip Watch. The design even served as a base for early Doxa designs. From there forward,…
Read MoreTudor 9401/0 Marine Nationale 80 Submariner
For those who lament the days when 5517s could be found south of 100K, listen up. Today we have one of the few ‘Rolex’ references (arguably) with issued military origins. The Marine Nationale (Division of French Navy) used a wide range of references, but a majority came from Rolex & its more experimental sister. Tudor Submariner…
Read More1st Gen Universal Genève Polerouter Compressor Sub
Today we have one truly rare bird. The Polerouter is regarded by many as the perfect dress-daily for collectors. It is mildly complicated with a micro-rotor architecture, understated with a Gerald Genta design, and svelt in its slim case proportion. It’s not even ruinously expensive. But the greatest joy of collecting the Polerouter lies in…
Read MoreUnder Market: A Humble Oris Divers 65
Not everything here has to be a heavy hitter. I’d like to think this site spans the breadth of what watches can offer, regardless of price. It is enough to simply present value. The humble Oris 65 is as ubiquitous as it is lovely. But this 65, at 1200 some USD, is a good few…
Read MoreIWC Aquatimer ‘Galapagos Islands’
Rubber is not a precious material. Despite that, it has been fusing slowly into haute-horology more and more every year. This IWC bathed in vulcanized rubber was one of the first high-end Swiss watches to truly embrace the material. In addition, it was developed for a cause. IWC is a long term partner of the…
Read MoreWabi-Sabi Gilt 5512 Submariner
I think what appeals to me so strongly in a tropical watch is that it’s a massive middle finger to the idea of putting a watch in a safe and waiting for appreciation. I like watches to be used as intended—embracing the effects as a consequence of a life well spent (this is also why…
Read MoreHighly Tropical Longines Legend Diver 7150
Every collector has heard at least one journalist muse over the fine line between wear and abuse. Straddling that gap today we have a reference that has become, at least in my eyes, a bit of an icon. Or perhaps I should say ‘Legend’. The 7150 was Longines’ initial generation of skin diver, featuring a 42mm…
Read MoreTropical Clebar Valjoux 7733 Diver
Clebar is not a terribly well-known brand. They will not be at GPHG next year. But they—like Leonidas—had a partnership with Heuer that would see the creation of some lovely 70s chronographs. There were simple two-register affairs like this panda, pilots with large tachy scales, and a few slightly more developed divers. Today we have…
Read MoreTransitional Rolex 16800 Sub Mk1
Rolex changed the 1680 sub over to the 16800 in 1980. As usual, the changes were subtle. The bezel became racheted and uni-directinal, the crystal went sapphire, a slimmer case was introduced with a 100m deeper rating, and quick-set date function was added to a higher-beat movement. Okay, maybe the changes weren’t so subtle. Here’s…
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