Fifty Fathoms, 'First Series' Rotomatic, Steel

The Fifty Fathoms stands apart as one of the earliest, most influential 1950s dive watches. Its origins trace back to the French Navy, specifically the Service de Documentation Extérieure et de Contre-Espionnage, combat divers of the Marine Nationale, and Captain Bob Maloubier. Captain Maloubier personally sketched the requirements of the Fifty Fathoms and submitted them to many brands. Only Blancpain saw the opportunity as then-CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter was an avid diver. The Fifty Fathoms was an immediate hit amongst actual dive professionals, quickly seeing use widely in the Marine Nationale. It then found its way to serve for many militaries across the world and Jacques Cousteau. Fifty Fathoms production was as varied and unusual as the Submariner of the time, only much, much less produced (and the bezel was far more fragile). 

This Rotomatic Fifty Fathoms is amongst the earliest examples that would have been available outside the military, just a year after inception. This is a very early example with a first series dial, dating to either 1954 or 1955. It includes Arabic quarters with very small triangles outside the numerals, only seen in the earliest dials. Later dials went on to have no triangles, then dot and diamond indices. In addition, it sports what’s come to be known as a ‘Luxor’ minute hand, which draws its name from the small separation at its end leading to a pyramid-like cap. The manufacture and model name are both printed in gilt, this is a gilt gloss construction with applied radium. Fifty Fathoms from before the 'No Rad' dial are notorious for their high Geiger readings and this example is no exception. It was in its time a tool meant to fill a role, but has been elevated to become quite the beautiful object in age. 

The Fifty Fathoms has gone on to enjoy a reputation as one of the most influential dive watches made. This is in part due to the fact that it debuted the first-ever uni-directional rotating bezel. But more than that, it filled a role marvelously for professionals, spawning dozens of militaries to order batches for themselves. Blancpain’s advertising in period often read, ‘Des hautes cimes aux grandes profondeurs’, meaning ‘From high peaks to great depths’. Indeed, this mastered the latter half of that ad, allowing not just the Marine Nationale but all of the world to no longer worry about running out of oxygen at 100ft. Today, that purpose-driven design with no frills has aged to become an object of sheer beauty, removed from its initial purpose but celebrated for it. 

This Fifty Fathoms presents in excellent and original condition. The dial is showing light signs of patina and radium burn, but beautifully so. The radium lume is original to the watch on dial and hands, with a strong Geiger. There is a very light texture to the gloss layer, more dense around the numerals. There is small, very minimal bubbling in areas, reminiscent of the early Tudor Snowflake in appearance, but smaller. The edges of the gilt script have begun to fade slightly on the left. The bezel's bakelite shows no hairlines or cracks anywhere, which is extremely uncommon. The case on this example is full and sharp, with wear on all surfaces and edges, exactly how you'd hope to find it. The calibre AS 1361 is running well and winds extremely efficiently. This example even retains its original gasket with French coloring code and its original ultra-thick crystal. It was last serviced in 2024.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.