5990/1A, Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph, Tiffany Dial, Steel

Patek Philippe’s Nautilus ref. 5990 debuted in 2014 to sizable furor, evolving to incorporate two highly-desired complications all under one reference. A hybrid of utilitarian complication, the 5990 brought together the Flyback Chronograph and Travel Time all under one reference for the first time. It was also available from the flagship 5th Avenue Tiffany & Co. A very small number of examples have been observed (and this one amongst them) to sport a subtle Tiffany signature in the 6 subdial. This discontinued grey Tiffany dial is the apex 5990A. 

Development of the 5990A blended traditional Swiss architecture with some cutting edge clutch and integration technology. The core challenge was packaging and integrating two relatively complex systems — a column-wheel, flyback chronograph and a Travel Time module — into a compact, robust automatic calibre suitable for a sports watch. 

Patek solved this with the entirely in-house CH 28-520 C FUS, which pairs a classic column wheel control with an innovative vertical (disk) clutch and a Travel Time mechanism derived from Patek patents and historical solutions. The Travel Time device is designed so that adjusting the local hour is isolated from the going train (so adjusting the hour hand won’t disturb timekeeping), and the vertical disk clutch smooths chronograph engagement and reduces wear compared with older horizontal-clutch designs. The movement is fairly slim for the functions it contains (movement dimensions and a sapphire caseback highlight the compact architecture). Those engineering choices were driven by three priorities: reliability (no timekeeping disruption when changing zones), ergonomics (easy chronograph and local-time adjustments), and preserving Nautilus proportions. This was all accomplished within a 40.5mm case. 

Tiffany lines have only been observed on a handful of 5990A. The boutique made these available to a handful of their best clients. We know from auction results that at least 8 exist in steel from public auction and market records, but this does not capture private sales or examples held in collections and is likely very low. In any event, there are very likely tens not hundreds out there.

Rather than travelling with multiple watches, the 5990 allows its owner the simplicity of one that covers all sporting roles. If Genta designed the Nautilus to be sporting, this is the ultimate incarnation of that philosophy. It is a highly composed design that compromises nowhere, technical prowess in one of the most desired case designs ever penned. 

This 5990/1A-001 presents in great overall condition. The case bears light to moderate signs of surface wear commensurate with occasional use. While there are no significant bashes, signs of surface wear are on most surfaces. That said, the case is unpolished and we know this example's full history definitely in that respect. It comes running well in specification with its original full set. Papers confirm the Tiffany dial and the blue Tiffany outer box survives with its full set down to the bow.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.