5512, Submariner, Explorer Dial, Steel

The earliest years of the ref. 5512 Submariner, following 1959 introduction, are characterized by the introduction of crown guards and rapid evolution. This is one such fleeting iteration that we never saw again: an Explorer dial 5512, from 1961 (which predates the four-lines). Amongst the most enigmatic models of any four-digit Rolex, the Explorer dial Submariner marries the rugged charm of the 5512 Submariner with legibility and charm of a 3-6-9 akin to a 6350. The variant is one of the rarest and most desirable Submariners made, appearing only in the early 1960s. 

Explorer dials were produced for both the 5512 and 5513, with production centering around 1961-1964. This production is largely inside the pointed crown guard or PCG case era, as we see in this example. Interestingly, it is speculated that all 5512/5513 Explorer dials were originally sold in commonwealth countries, though this is not confirmed. While ads appearing in other countries featured the Explorer dial, collectors and scholars certainly note most originated in these regions, in a percentage massively dominated by the UK itself. Most estimates place total known examples well under 200 today. 

Production of Explorer dials them breaks down into four main variants largely separated by the Swiss signature. First, approximately 1961-1962, this Variant I has an exclamation with closed chapter ring and no ‘m’ in the meter rating (the exclamation point on Variant I Explorer Submariners is far smaller, almost imperceptible compared to a period 1675, yet clear under UV). Second, 1962-1963, Variant II sports the underline at 12 with white Swiss, chapter ring now open, meter rating complete. In 1963 and onwards two variants emerged closely. Variant III features an underline at 6 with gilt Swiss, otherwise mirroring II largely. Shortly thereafter, still in 1963, Variant IV with underline,  < T - 25 appeared. There are variants after IV from 1965 featuring T < 25 without underline, but the category is not well chronicled and they generally fall into IV as a broader category. The present example comes from this 1961 and is a Variant I, as demarcated by the lack of ‘m’ in meters, chapter ring, tiny exclamation plot, and non-italic FT inscription. 

The Explorer dial Submariner is a treasure never to be seen again, an era of Rolex when models were not so well-defined and production methods down to the print clichés were a far more manual process. To many, this is the beautiful Submariner made: a sweet spot encompassing early crown guard shape, Explorer charms, gilt dial construction, and immense depth of scholarship required in early Submariners. Quite simply, the Explorer dial 5512 is in its own category of allure. 

This 5512 presents in excellent overall condition. Its dial presents warm luminous plots, perfectly matching the handset applications. The print is all preserved and quite clear. The dial's gloss lacquer layer has become slightly more matte, as almost always happens in these dials. The pip at 6 is present under UV, partial, but minimal to the eye. The case (SN 66X,XXX) features well defined bevels, stop top brushing, and sharp back edges. The 6636/80 expanding rivet Oyster bracelet dates to 1962. Its luminous bezel pearl has been replaced. The calibre 1530 is running well in specification on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.