3800A, Nautilus, Steel

Launched in 1981 just four years after the initial ref. 3700, the ref. 3800 was Patek Philippe’s first mid-sized Nautilus. The first mechanical successor, its proportions were tightened to 37.5mm and a central seconds was added. Though the 3800 evolved through myriad configurations, this example is the most classic variant: ‘noir’ tritium dial in steel. It is an impressively refined, vintage Nautilus for those who desire a more modest option. 

Patek did not just scale down its 37.5mm monobloc case from 42mm, subtle curvature was added to the ‘ears’ providing a more delicate look. A central seconds hand was added for additional functionality. Numerous configurations were offered through its 25 year production, with case metals, dial color, marker type, and date disc color all variable. Components were produced in large batches and used at the watchmaker’s discretion, eliminating true production ‘series.’ The market has been remarkably stable for steel variants, perhaps due to their alignment with the model’s integrated sport origins. A 3800J (yellow gold) was about twice the cost of a 3800A (steel) in 1981 when listed, that gap has shrunk meaningfully. 

The ref. 3800 was powered by two distinct movements, the 335 SC, followed by the 330 SC which this 1994 example bears. Both were intended to bring the manufacture closer to in-house trends of the time, eschewing usual Jaeger LeCoultre ébauches. Both are under 3.5mm thin, the difference  being standards. The 330 SC introduced a gyromax balance, and managed to apply for and meet Geneva Seal standards. In addition, the rotor is engraved with the Calatrava cross. This finishing work was all performed to standard, even though the calibre was completely obscured by a solid case.

In collecting, the reference has some unique quirks. When disassembled, there is a small star under the left ear, which remains a mystery. Additionally, there is a serial number on the inside of the caseback whose last three digits are printed on the back of the ‘ear’. Clasps varied throughout the years, with three distinct Marks. This Mark 2 has a more substantial construction, still with a small raised Calatrava cross circle applied.

Age and patina has caused large variance between tones across the reference’s blue (Noir on Extract) dial, which range from deep blue to slightly green or teal. This example has maintained its tone well, remaining a deep midnight blue with accents of green in bright light. Despite the variety in configurations, this specification is true to its heritage with luminous white gold baton hands and indices. It features a dotless ‘Sigma Swiss Sigma’ signature denoting its precious metal indices, slightly rarer than the variant separated by dots. Its white date disk sports serif text, a more refined alternative to the bold Sans-Serif found on some examples.

While steel variants of the 3800 had a higher list price than that of a steel 3700, historically collectors felt the case size too small causing the second hand market to lag. In recent years, the push toward more modest case proportions has seen focus on the 3800 ascend slowly. The 3800 offers the same silky wearing experience with more adaptable case proportions. It is Nautilus made discreet and modest.

This 3800A presents in excellent overall condition. The case is full and sharp with some light surface wear. The dial has light spidering only visible in close inspection, entirely original and unrestored. The tritium within the handset has been restored respectfully, with color and UV matching. TThe bracelet features a similar level of wear with some light surface wear but overall strong condition. It is running well within specification on our timing equipment. This 3800A includes an extract of archive and box, with full links.

This watch is modelled on an average sized 7 inch wrist.