25720BA, Star Wheel, Yellow Gold

The 1990s were the height of some of Audemars Piguet’s best complications in 36mm cases. This is perhaps the most experimental and first ‘serious’ wristwatch take on the wandering hours complication. This, the Star Wheel, debuted in 1991 to much critical acclaim but slow sales. Its aesthetic and calibre were ahead of its time. Since, it has inspired a wake of watchmakers such as Urwerk, VC, Parimigiani, and more to imagine innovative time displays. This is an early example with a guilloché dial in yellow gold, one of the most daring Audemars Piguets made of recent times. 

The wondering hours complication has an incredibly rich history dating back to a Vatican clock made for Pope Alexander VII in 1656 by the Campani brothers. The original use case was as a night clock, where the minute track section would be illuminated by candle, which did not chime. Far later, in 1989, Audemars Piguet watchmakers discovered an old Swiss watchmaking journal which featured an atypical clock that used three visible discs mounted on a rotating carousel to indicate time similarly to what we see here. After a year and half of research and prototyping, including a patent, the Star Wheel released in 1991. 

The modern execution uses three sapphire discs mounted on a central carousel, which rotate after sweeping through the minute arc such that the next hour numeral is always prepared to enter the minute track. Where all prior attempts at the wandering hours wristwatch concealed the calibre, Audemars Piguet’s placed it on full display, partially skeletonized. The model gets its name from the carrier wheels under the sapphire discs, which work with elongated and beautifully finished jumper springs to align the next hour. This is powered by a JLC ébauche, calibre 2124, adjusted in five positions and beautifully finished. 

Since the 25720, the Wandering Hours display was revisited by Audemars Piguet in the John Scheaffer Minute Repeater, pocket watches, and modern Code 11.59 series. However, none of them succeed in capturing the traditional elegance that this ref. 25720 exudes. Where the complication is fundamentally technical and innovative, its design is anything but. That classicism and paradox is what defines the original Star Wheel. It is also why no attempts to revisit the complication have been as successful as these beautiful and thin 36mm executions. With its thin profile and stepped bezel, it remains the most elegant take on a rather experimental complication. 

This 25720 presents in excellent overall condition. Its case presents excellent and sharp hallmarks between the lugs with deep caseback engravings. Case and lug side brushing is still very much present. There is light oxidation in the deepest part of the bezel step just starting. Its calibre 2124 is running well in specification on our timing equipment. It comes on its original strap with pin buckle.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist. It will ship on its original strap, not the strap pictured.