1601/9, Datejust, Lapis Dial, White Gold

Within the Datejust and Day-Date, early white gold cases with hardstone dials are amongst the rarest iterations of Rolex ever created. This is a ref. 1601/9, of which just a handful were created with lapis dials. Lapis stone was and is largely sourced from Afghanistan, where the rich blue hue is made unique via pyrite and calcite vein inclusions. Amongst the most sought-after Rolex today, stone dials in white precious metal (absent any indices or diamonds) reign sovereignly within Datejust. With its matching white gold Jubilee bracelet, this example is an apex within Datejust collecting. 

Stone dials began as an experiment in the Day-Date and Datejust, following Stella and wood dials. They were the first Rolex dials to not bear indices of any type. Manufacturing stone dials proved fraught, as they were prone to fracture. It is widely stated that one in every 5 dials would successfully survive the manufacturing process when apertures were created. Of these dials each aperture was then framed in faceted, matching gold. 

As print clichés were not varied to start, dials were signed first T Swiss T, followed shortly chronologically by Swiss-only (regardless of the handsets used). Both were manufactured in series but often cased well after production. In white gold and platinum models, the print on their stone dials was applied in silver ink, in order to match the case. Additionally, the aperture surrounds matched metal.  

White gold Datejust, as this 1601 is (/9 denotes white gold), took a very particular buyer in the 1970s. This wasn’t the top of the Rolex catalogue in period, the Day-Date had already emerged. For both a stone dial and precious metal, you were adding a very significant premium to the Datejust’s RRP. In fact, the RRP of this 1601/9 would have far exceeded most standard Day-Dates. In white gold, a Rolex client was paying excess to enjoy discretion. They are rare today simply because that proposition appealed to very few in period. With hindsight, it’s easy to see how these accidentally because one of the most beautiful and rare categories in Rolex collecting. 

Stone dial Datejust (and Day-Date) in white precious metal has become a collecting category unto itself in the last decade, not dissimilar in many ways to the very early days Paul Newman collecting only less common. The Datejust and Day-Date are synonymous with Rolex, in the same way that the Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is synonymous with Patek Philippe. This is simply one of the most desirable categories of dial to ever appear within Datejust.

This 1601/9 present in excellent overall condition. First and foremost, its dial is flawless with no hairlines or fractures of any sort. Its lugs are quite strong, with sharp bezel definition and lug backs. The hallmarks and 18k stamp are well defined. Its case bears a moderate degree of surface wear, commensurate with an honest example worn carefully over the decades. Its white gold Jubilee bracelet has minimal stretch and has not been restored. It comes running well in specification on our timing equipment.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.