Enamel Dial Laurent Ferrier Galet Traveller

That blue, that’s enamel. And while just about any natural escapement, micro-rotor Laurent Ferrier is something to behold, this sector dial with contrasting enamel is a knockout. If you can cast you minds way back to 2017, this was one of the earliest and best looking Hodinkee collaborations. They made just 15, all in titanium. It’s not as famous as the Cornes de Vache or IWC Mark, but it’s seriously lovely. And for whatever you make of their brand, Hodinkee do know how to make a watch beautiful. And even better when it’s not just grey. This will survive history as one of the greatest Laurent Ferrier aesthetics ever. It’s almost a shame there are just 15.

The Traveller was heavily inspired by Ferrier’s time at Patek Philippe, where he served for 37 years and mostly as technical director. One of Ferrier’s favorite Patek reference’s also happens to be one of mine: ref. 2597. This is effectively a Calatrava with push buttons to skip over time zones. Just search for our finds article on one earlier this year. The blue enamel here includes white gold inlaid for the sector track, a removed date and petite seconds, and home time at 9. These changes work on just about every level. A sector dial can make anything attractive, even the 5296. Same with enamel. But when you’re starting with a baseline as high as the traveller, both additions together spell a mind-altering appearance.

The most impressive thing Laurent Ferrier has yet accomplished in his career has to be serial production of a natural escapement, which is no small feat, finishing ability aside. The natural escapement is here, but not in all of Ferrier’s watches. It’s not simple to make. The natural escapement was conceived by Breguet and uses dual direct impulse on its balance. And then there’s an avant-garde but traditional ruthenium finishing. I really mean this, Laurent Ferrier’s work on his higher pieces is at the top with the very best work in the world. This is a travel watch in the same way that the Desmosedici is a motorcycle. Yes, but it’s so artfully executed with thoroughbred pedigree that it may as well be considered a different category entirely.

This Traveller is one of just three I’ve seen come to market since 2017. It’s listed as mint to unworn, but I do see hairlines so I’d use the parlance excellent to great personally. Either way, it’s a sick watch. It comes with its full set from a well-regarded large New England retailer.