‘Art Deco’ Piece Unique Voutilainen Vingt-8

I don’t know what to say here except that this is a pretty wild thing. This is the ‘Art Deco’, a piece unique Voutilainen based on the 28SC SB, the first Vingt-8 to feature centre seconds. But this Art Deco has a lug we haven’t seen before or after, which looks like it belongs permanently inside of a Talbot-Lago T150. Kari makes about 50 watches per year under his eponymous brand Voutilainen. When you compare this FP Journe, who makes about 800 watches yearly, or Patek Philippe, who manufacture roughly 80K watches, you can see how Kari might be able to better afford the time to work much more closely with his better clients. The result is just a wave of personality, both from Kari’s 28SC side and the client’s Art Deco inspiration.

The 28SC was the very first Vingt-8 to feature centre seconds, which leaves its dial totally unobstructed. It’s not a small update to change from petite to centre second. This 28SC SB is the limited edition which followed with a green and gold-brown Comblémine dial, made in just 12 examples. This is something of the final evolution of that watch, which won Men’s Prize at the 2020 GPHG. Each detail from its multiple guilloché styles to the handset is lavished with attention. The handset, for example, takes two full days, a mix of white gold and blued steel that modernizes the traditional Observatoire style. The escapement Kari uses is equally inspired, two escape wheels to deliver direct impulse, a variant of Breguet’s Natural escapement which is 30% more efficient than a Swiss lever.

This one of one is, however, entirely about one of the most important and overlooked parts of watchmaking: case manufacture. Voutilainen has always used individually sculpted, soldered lugs in the traditional case-craft style. The only change here, effectively, is the lug profile. And now you can see just what a massive difference this once component makes to the way a watch wears. The Kari teardrop is classic, this is imposing, decidedly ornate, and retro-futurist. It’s also in steel, which we rarely see from Kari. We first saw this watch on Kari’s wrist in 2020, it’s been gone until it came to auction this fall. It’s a little Great Gatsby, most great Kari.

This example appears to show nothing more than light surface wear. It’s a lovely creation that isn’t likely to be seen again, coming to auction this fall. *Wood background photography courtesy of Hodinkee via Atom Moore, rest Phillips.*