25668PT, Perpetual Calendar Skeleton, Platinum

This is the ref. 25668PT, the ultimate evolution of the original 5548, produced from 1988 until 1993 to celebrate the resurgence of complicated mechanical watchmaking to Switzerland. In platinum, just 141 examples were made in total (including the earlier evolution ref. 25558, 79 of 25668). It is the most highly collected, highly finished QP of its time. This example comes from the original owner’s family, having been in a safe since the 90s. It is, humbly, quite remarkable. 

At launch in 1978, the Quantième Perpétuel was the thinnest perpetual calendar that had ever been made at 3.95mm. Its calibre 2120/2800 was developed in the throes of the quartz crisis in secret, by a team of three senior watchmakers (lead watchmaker Michel Rochat, founder of the technical department Daniel Golay, and head of service Wilfred Berney) who feared Audemars Piguet's budget would not allow for the development of complicated mechanical watchmaking. The three formed their own skunkworks and worked after-hours in secret unpaid. The calibre utilizes thoroughly reworked JLC 920 ébauche with its own calendar works. The result revived not just Audemars Piguet's complications, but all of Switzerland. Calibre 2120/2800 changed the course of watchmaking history. The 36mm case was then penned by Jacqueline Dimier, arguably her most famous work with its gracefully downturned lug and steeped bezel. 

The 25668PT debuted the blue subdial platinum aesthetic, which has since become lore inside of Audemars Piguet, even referenced as recently as this year. But it is between the subdials where effort has been poured. First, the sword subdial hands are heat blued. The openworking encompasses hand engraving, bevelling, anglage, black polish, and an uncountable number of inner angles. The skeletonized moonphase is a particularly thoughtful touch. It is a celebration of traditional technique flourishing again in Switzerland. 

The 25668 is one of the most visually captivating of the Holy Trinity post-quartz perpetual calendars. To the extent that modern AP has become the Royal Oak company, they do immense disservice to this legacy, one of the greatest in watchmaking. This watch led the charge for mechanical watchmaking’s return against the growing quartz shadow and sold to great success. It is easily one of the most critical, significant references of the last century.

This 25668PT has a remarkable story. It comes to us from the original family. It has been in a safe since the 1990s, hardly worn. The watch was only worn for special occasions in period and remains in unrivaled condition. The case has never been polished, all hallmarks and engravings are utterly perfect. It comes on its original strap, with matching original platinum pin buckle.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist.