Vacheron Constantin's answer to the Royal Oak and Nautilus came in 1977 with the 222, a celebration of the brand's 222^nd anniversary. The third and last of this supposed 'holy trinity', it was not designed by Genta but rather a young Jörg Hysek, who embraced a hexagonal, serrated theme. It was a clear deviation from the classically inspired dress watches Vacheron Constantin had been refining for decades, a step into the unknown.

The core of the 222 collection spanned two case sizes, a 37mm ref. 44018 'jumbo' and this 34.5mm mid-size ref. 46003. Due to slow sales, production of the 222 stopped in 1984 after eight short years. The most accurate estimates place production at just 700 jumbo examples. Mid-size is less well documented and estimates vary from 250-1000 examples. A wide range of dial colors and case metals were offered in both, including this distinctive bimetal, all monobloc construction with a Maltese cross stamped below 5 and serrated bezel. The clasp and bracelet of the 222 was made at Gay Frères. This 46003 is a remarkable 7mm thin. It is powered by a JLC 889 ébauche, ultra-thin with centre seconds and a Glucydur balance. Interestingly, the rotor uses ceramic ball bearings and a 21k gold weight.

This 46003 has a correct sigma tritium dial which looks far more white than silver. It is widely reported that Vacheron produced the 46003 in only champagne (gold) and silver. This dial looks far lighter than any silver example we have seen, there are a few examples known like this. Many do now believe a lighter silver and more steel-colored silver were both produced in addition to champagne. Others believe this is the effect of ageing alone. This now seems more unlikely given that we've seen gold print on darker silver dials and black print on these lighter dials. In either case, this is a rather uncommon tone that appears more cream-white than silver. We know just a few white dials were made in the 44018 and with Roman numerals in 46003, and this appears much closer to these other known aged white dials in tone and any brushed silver. We are hesitant to say anything other than what is concretely known, but certainly in 99/100 lighting scenarios the dial here does not appear silver to the naked eye.

The 222 is a daring risk that stemmed from the wake of the quartz crisis, one of very few times Vacheron Constantin went for revolution over evolution. Despite Vacheron revisiting this design recently, the original watches are genuinely scarce. At minimum, both jumbo and mid-size are four times as rare as their respective Royal Oak counterparts. Its industrial, harsh case design feels today more avante-garde than even much of Genta, which can polarize. The 222 didn't just mark an anniversary, but the high-water mark of experimental daring from the notoriously reserved Vacheron Constantin. History is only now starting to appreciate it as such.

This 46003 presents in very good condition. The case has defined bevels with superficial surface wear commensurate with age. It has likely been polished prior in its light. The bracelet wear is comparable, with only moderate marking and no significant bashes or desk-diving marks. The bracelet wears very tight still, remarkably so, and not jangly at all. The second up from top bracelet link sports more wear and is beginning to fray slightly at the end of the gold application relative to the steel below it, not noticeable unless the bracelet is purposefully bent around that link, but should be noted. We are happy to try and capture that more closely at request, the link could likely be replaced at a VC service. Its sigma dial shows light signs of age, with a mild patina developing on its tritium, matched in handset. There are no significant spots on the dial. It sports the correct Maltese cross crown. It was serviced recently at VC and is running will in spec on our timing equipment.

We tried to photograph in a range of lighting harshness to display the dial color in different conditions in the last 3 images. The first was taken at a lighting intensity of 100%, the second at 50%, and the third at 25%.

This watch is modelled on a slightly smaller than average 6.3" wrist.

• Brand: Vacheron Constantin
• Model: 222
• Reference: 46003
• Size: 34.5
• Year: c. 1985
• Case Material: 18k Yellow Gold & Steel
• Movement: Automatic Calibre 1124
• Scope: Watch, Original Box