The ref. 1675 GMT-Master is one of the most recognizable watches in Rolex history. Made from 1959 until 1980, it’s also one of the longest production runs of any Rolex reference ever. But add a /3 to the end of 1675 and the recipe changes entirely. The two-tone steel and 18k yellow gold 1675/3 ‘Root Beer’ has a charming character all its own, made for a decade starting in, you guessed it, 1970. It mixes all imaginable shades of reddish brown and warm gold to create a watch that truly lives up to its nickname.
This was the first Root Beer, a case stamped 1675 (which, in two-tone, collectors call the 1675/3) and not the latter 16753 (no stroke). This means it hasn’t yet received the quickset date that debuted in 1980. But instead, in a magnificent form of consolation prize, this earlier dial bears an applied coronet which disappeared in later production. The stroke here also means you get a fat font bezel, which on this example has some of the most attractive ghost patina we’ve seen. In both references though, the main attraction is the nipple dial, so named for its applied conical indices with tritium centers. The nipple dial was Rolex’s way of heightening a dial to match precious metal case construction during this era and there’s something very alluring about them that has a direct pull on collectors’ heartstrings.
The Root Beer was made most famous by Clint Eastwood, who wore one as his personal watch. In fact, he wore it so frequently that it often found its way into films in which he starred. Many nicknamed watches appear once on an actor’s wrist, chosen by a set designer. The Root Beer was a part of Eastwood’s life and popped up in Firefox (1982), Tightrope (1984), and In The Line of Fire (1993) amongst other appearances. That, to our sensibility, is just a bit more interesting than the former scenario. And even though it never bore the nickname, it’s also interesting to note that a Root Beer was the personal watch of Elio de Angelis, for the Formula One hardcore among us.
The Root Beer has gone on to influence a whole section of GMT-Master I and II production since. But the bimetal case, in contrast with its bright umber dial, has never been bettered since first introduction. If you want Root Beer, our personal opinion is that it’s best served vintage. Particularly with an applied coronet. In Dirty Harry (1971), Eastwood famously grumbled through his signature scowl, ‘Go ahead. Make my day.’ This one will, every time it’s on wrist.
