‘Cover Girl’ A3818 Zenith El Primero
I’ll just say it, people who don’t appreciate vintage Zenith are philistines. Zenith were wildly experimental with case design and developed the most technically proficient automatic chronograph movement of the decade, still in use today. And yet, everyone still conflates them with 90s televisions. But don’t take it from me. So good was the 3019…
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‘Small Daytona’ Dial 6240 Rolex Cosmograph
The 6240 is, arguably, the most important Cosmograph reference not to be hyped. It would not be a stretch to say that all screw-down Daytonas exist because of this reference’s lineage. Production numbers of the 6240 were exceedingly small at fewer than 2000 examples, as is the frequency of conversation surrounding it today. Two years after…
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1579 ‘Spider Lug’ Patek Philippe Chronograph
Lug design counts for at least half of the way a watch wears, its importance cannot be overstated. Assuming a case is reasonably proportioned, which is a tall order for some brands, the lug makes or breaks it. In car design, brands carefully construct a wheel & tire package with a balanced harmony of width,…
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Tropical Dial 1680/8 Rolex Submariner
Nothing on Earth says ‘F-you money’ like a gold Sub. In much the same way that an S-Class wafts past in total opulence, the 1680/8 wears with similar imperious grandeur. Except this particular example, it’s a bit different. One of the primary joys of vintage is that two watches, which on paper may be identical, look…
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186.0013 Omega Equinoxe ‘Reverso’
What happens when you take a Reverso and force it to listen to Take Me Home Tonight by Eddie Money (what a jam) on loop for a year? You wind up at one of the great oddities of the 80s. This is the ref. 186.0013, arguably the height of Omega’s experimental years in the throes…
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Comex 16800 Rolex Submariner
There aren’t a huge number of Submariners post-white gold surrounds that possess the quality we vintage lovers so carelessly label as soul, but this certainly is one. In fact, it’s probably the most characterful Sub that’s still tough as nails. This is a ref. 16800, a sweet spot for many that saw the transition to…
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Ghost ‘Havana’ Dial 1802 Rolex Day-Date
The interest of Day-Date collecting lies in nuance. All Day-Dates share a similar proportion, functionality, and design. But the details can vary so wildly as to leave a completely different impression: lapis dials, gem setting, retailer signatures, claw indices, or Florentine finishing are all so distinct that they may as well be different models. You’re…
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Dubai Edition 79360N Tudor Black Bay Chronograph for Seddiqi
If you’re still of the belief that Tudor is a stepping stone, or for those who simply can’t yet afford a Rolex, you’re living in 1973. This is a Tudor that will cost you two Batgirl GMTs, or four at retail. No, Tudor today fulfill the role that Rolex did decades ago: dependable watches made…
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’13 Rue de la Paix’ Salmon Dial Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir
The Tortue Monopoussoir is easily one of the most desirable collected Cartiers of the CPCP years, with some of the greatest modern names contributing to its THA-ébauche calibre before it was cool to do your own thing. A young FP Journe, Denis Flageollet (now De Bethune), and Vianney Halter all had a hand in constructing…
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Tropical Dial ‘US 6th Fleet’ 105.003-65 Omega Speedmaster
The Speedmaster has no shortage of nuance. Its ardent supporters will not let you forget. But arguably, the clearest delineation in the pre-moon time, when this was just a chronograph aimed at racing, was its lugs. Straight lugs became lyre lugs directly after this, the 105.003 better known as the ‘Ed White’ for its time…
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