A Very-Early Diver: Rolex 6205 Submariner
Only produced for one year closely after the first-ever 6204 Submariner, the 6205 was first to feature iconic Mercedes hands and text “Submariner” on the dial. Every Rolex Submariner since has inherited and built on this DNA. The appeal of the 6205 is clear; this is probably the cleanest Rolex design ever to feature “Submariner”…
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1 of 66: MB&F HM5 CarbonMacrolon
Somewhere between madness and genius in Switzerland lies a small studio, Maximilian Büsser & Friends (MB&F). The don’t make watches as much as artful mechanical entertainment. When they decided to make a driver’s wristwatch a few years back (the HM5), it was unlike anything we’d seen. I called it ‘fit for Starlord’. That’s as may be….
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Genesis: A 1931 Lecoultre Reverso
This is no tribute reference. The Reverso seen here has survived nearly a century and not lost any of its charm, despite showing some age. Jaeger-Lecoultre re-issued the 1931 Reverso a few years ago. It has become an iconic to the brand. There are many watches you can wear formally, but not many with the…
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Breitling 806 Twin Planes Navitimer
The Navitimer is easily the most recognizable Breitling in the manufacture’s illustrious history. It has been a favorite of pilots and posers since 1952. If anything, the brand was a victim of their own earned success. In truth, the Navitimer is a very credible and well-designed piece. The Breitling 806’s dial was the first to…
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An Honest Seiko 62MAS
One of the kings in all of vintage Seiko, the 1965 Seiko 62MAS was genesis for their quite popular modern dive series. The DNA is clearly visible throughout the current range. It was the first serious attempt to appeal to the new dive market, as all previous releases had 50m of resistance. The 150m on…
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Tudor 7928Ci Argentine Military Submariner
MN ‘snowflake’ milsubs tend to get all the glory, however Tudor’s military history extends far beyond France. Ci engravings shown here mark “Cuerpo Infanteria.” Originally thought to be from Canada, a long forum discussion with confirmation from Tudor determined these to be a rare series of 7928s issued to the Argentine Infantry Corps. Production numbers…
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Patek Philippe 5196P Tiffany-Signed Calatrava
Almost all Patek guys would consider the 570 to be the Calatrava. The 570 is an origin to so much of modern watchmaking, what the Stones are to rock. It was the clear inspiration when Patek Philippe decided to return to the simple Breguet-numbered Calatrava in 2004. However, much like the Stones, it’s easy to screw…
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Heuer Carrera 2447D First Execution
The 2447, in any guise, is a reference hardly needing introduction. It is the model which set Heuer en-route to its present state. It’s an uncompromisingly bauhausian aesthetic with true purpose. There’s no secret that I have a soft spot for it and most of vintage Heuer. If I had to feature one reference on…
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A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Striking Time
Fair warning, this may devolve to a love letter. I’ll try to remain objective. Today we feature a hardly-worn white gold A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk from The Keystone. As a ‘standard’ striking-time Zeitwerk (if there is such a thing) 145.029, it’s not a particularly rare reference. However, it is a perfect one. Without a…
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Zenith A. Cairelli AMI CP-2
The Zenith A. Cairelli AMI CP-2 represents a high-water mark of effortless Italian style. In its period, Turin gave us the Type 33 Stradale, Quant gave the world the miniskirt, Florence gave us the true Vespa, and Zenith gave Italy’s Air Force the CP-2. All of the above mark high-water points as style icons. Succeeding…
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