Japan-Only Grand Seiko SBGW235
Three-hand dress pieces don’t come much more classic than this quiet gem from Grand Seiko. Most of us saw the2017 SBGW231 37mm manual-wind dress model in the world’s media. However, as is often the way with Grand Seiko, if you looked a little deeper you would also see a Japan-only variant listed on the Japanese…
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Value Proposition: the 16758 GMT-Master
It’s no secret that steel sports Rolex are in their own class these days. Hell, people are even willing to sell a kidney for a Lange 1 in steel. As steel Rolex auction results routinely break new highs, it seems worth considering their precious metal-based siblings as an alternative. In the decade of its release,…
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Museum-Grade IWC 666AD
Alright, fine. Watches aren’t investments, etc. But if they were, and they often can be, this IWC would meet the grade. A+ Condition, full originality, and historical significance are all present. The 666AD was IWC’s take on the antimagnetic watch, preceding both the Milgauss and Railmaster (some have said the lightning-bolt ‘Ingenieur’ logo served as…
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A Stunning Breitling 765 ‘Raquel Welch’ Co-Pilot
We all have to occasionally lament the one that got away. No, I don’t mean significant others from years gone by. I mean vintage Breitlings. Three years ago I sold a 765 AVI and have regretted it every day since. I’ve easily forgotten Subs, Speedmasters, and even a Saxonia. But somehow this long forgetten gem…
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Coffee-Dialed Rolex 1016 Explorer
There is nothing I can say about the 1016 Rolex Explorer which has not been said already. It’s one of the most understated yet important references of the Swiss Manufacture’s history. It sports a plethora of famous owners, every day wearability, dress potential, and (most importantly) humility. The 1016 might just be the most tasteful…
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Lemania Royal Navy Series 3 Military Chronograph
Outside of the standard Rolex, Tudor, and Zenith, Lemania’s single pusher chronograph has to be considered amongst the most elegant military designs. Lemania created chronographs for Sweden, South Africa, and the UK. Powered by the simple Lemania cal 2220, the chronograph has register functions encoded entirely to the single pusher. The simple design is quite…
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Deep Dive: Panerai 3646 D/E
Modern Panerai gets a hard time from many enthusiasts. Some have called them ‘the new Hublot.’ Others have coined the motto ‘rebranding the Luminor since 1990.’ A fraction of that criticism is deserved, while the larger ratio is not. However, even the most cynical collector cannot deny the depth of history this Italian mark holds….
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Symphony in Silicon: Patek Philippe 5550P-001 Advanced Research
This marvel of engineering is one historically significant piece of unobtanium from the great Patek. Never one to rest on laurels, Patek Philippe has been leading the way in mechanical watchmaking innovation for some time. In 2011, their ‘Advanced Research’ division (roughly 70 R&D employees who enjoy an experiment) created the first entirely silicon escapement….
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Ahead of its Time: IWC Aquatimer 812 AD
The early Aquatimer 812 AD is a thing of austere beauty, very unlike the shouty models of today. They may easily be mistaken for other (lesser) super compressors, but make no mistake: this is one serious bit of kit. For their first ever diver, IWC utilized the famous cal 8541 with Pellaton winding system from its Ingenieur…
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Rolex 5504 Air King with 3-6-9 Explorer Dial
At first glance, this Air King may be very easily mistaken for its 1016 counterpart. However, the dial markings are not quite Explorer. Equally, the well-aged indices are raised. Its 36mm case was used for both models, though some 5504s produced with 1016 Explorer-styled dials blur this line. The 1530 movement also varies from the…
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