Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph Reissue
I present to you today a watch which is rare for very different reasons. It is a desirable modern release being retailed by Analog Shift at a reasonably competitive asking price. I jest. But, nonetheless, I speak truth. The Sub 200 T-Graph was released in 2019 by Doxa as a modern reissue of the 1968…
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A Gilt, Ghosted Tudor 7928 Rose Submariner
The classic four digit Tudor Submariner has never looked better than it does today. No date, gilt, and a rose dial to die for. Although the apple didn’t fall far from the Rolex 5513 tree, there’s some intangible appeal to Tudor’s alternative offering which is even stronger. This is particularly the case when examples are…
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Tropical Heuer 1163 GMT ‘Red Needle’
The 1163 GMT is one of the Heuer’s diamonds in the rough. Though the myriad vaguely-racing-oriented chronographs they’ve produced can easily be confused, this GMT stand out. It may not have been a commercial success for Heuer, but, like the early Daytonas, that has only made it more desirable to collectors today. Pieces like this…
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1960s Gallet Flying Officer World Time
This two register chronograph with a world time dial and rotating bezel has almost certainly become Gallet’s most famed model. The watch was produced for the US Army Air Corps, even being worn by Harry Truman at its height. Some have argued this is the world’s first time-zone wristwatch, others point to Cottier and prototype…
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Genesis of Modern Zenith: the A386
Very little stirs the ‘purchase now’ instinct in me like the A386 El Primero these days. The monumentally innovative reference appeals to all my senses. Its design is attractive, the contrasted big-eye subs uniquely lovely. The automatic cal 3019 is as gorgeous as it was groundbreaking. It’s also a complete sleeper to the general population….
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Girard Perregaux 5368 Triple Calendar
Girard Perregaux may not have the street cred of the holy trinity, but they should. GP were around and making beautiful metal in period with the big three. In my experience, amongst those who really know watches, there is universal respect for GP. Though today probably best known for the Laureato, there are myriad other…
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A 1940s Gallet Field Watch
Racine was the historic US label for Gallet watches. Although probably best known for the ‘Flying Officer’ chronograph, Gallet’s illustrious history runs all the way back to 1826. In 1877 a relative of the Gallet family relocated from Switzerland to the US and the Racine line was born. This is not unlike Wakmann for Breitling…
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1 of 50 Early Franck Muller Steel Chronograph
This classic chronograph was among the first pieces released by Franck Muller after stepping out in 1991 to create his own house. Mr. Muller grew up in Switzerland and went to become a watchmaker at just fifteen. After working at an auction house, he became one of the world’s preeminent watch restorers. He oversaw Patek…
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A Near-Perfect Zenith A. Cairelli CP-2
For those who adore the utilitarian military aesthetic of the classic pilot’s chronograph, this your watch. Moreover, theres a flash of that classic 1960s Italian style that knows no bounds. I can’t quite say why, but this watch puts me in mind of all the classic icons: the Vespa, Alfa’s original Disco Volante, and Lake…
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The Actual Casino Royale Seamaster 300: 2220.80
I have nothing against the recent No Time to Die Seamaster releases. But, equally, I don’t admire them. Particularly the flagship titanium job. I can’t help feeling that the fauxtina, shark mesh, and fake broad arrow feel more like a marketing exercise than anything Bond of old would sport. I’m not under any false pretense,…
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