De-Bethune-DB25-Perpetual-Calendar-Titanium

De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar

You wouldn’t guess it at a glance, but this is a perpetual calendar. It’s just a perpetual calendar in titanium with a spherical palladium/zirconium moonphase and day/month apertures in a place you might not expect. There’s an inherent paradox here. Denis Flageollet has had some pretty audacious cases and designs over the years. This isn’t…

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Price

$801.12


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6239-Rolex-Cosmograph-Daytona

6239 Rolex Cosmograph Daytona

There is an intangible allure to true vintage Rolex which has lived with just a single owner. Is watch really any different if one person or two have owned it? That depends entirely on the people in question. The majority of us won’t have ever had the option to have purchased a 6239 new. If…

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Price

$801.12


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5251-IWC-Portofino-Moonphase

5251 IWC Portofino Moonphase

This is an IWC you probably won’t have seen or heard of. It’s a ref. 5251, the picture of 1980s excess in two dimensions: 46mm wide but a remarkable 9.5mm thin. This thing makes the Padellone look like a tea saucer in both dimensions, but it’s not without reason. Kurt Klaus had a lot of…

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Price

$801.12


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Patek-Philippe-5065J-Aquanaut-Tritium-Dial

Tritium Dial 5065J Patek Philippe Aquanaut

Richard Mille did not invent casual haute horlogerie, but the 90s did. The dot-com bubble millionaires were of a different ilk to pre-quartz-crisis wealth. So Patek Philippe approached the problem with typical-of-era obsessive over-engineering and thought. In the process, they accidentally made the watch world’s ultimate summer watch. The Aquanaut strap took one full year…

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Price

$801.12


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2597-Patek-Philippe-Calatrava-Pink-Gold

2597 Patek Philippe ‘Travel Time’ Calatrava, Pink Gold

Developed just after the initial Worldtimers by Louis Cottier, the ref. 2597 is a damn cool ‘Travel Time’ from 1956, the very start of the jet age. The reference can be thought of as a 570 Calatrava with a little je ne sais quoi complication reminding you to go out and explore the world. The watch featured,…

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Price

$801.12


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Vacheron-Constantin-222-Jumbo-Steel

44018 Vacheron Constantin 222 Jumbo, Steel

Perceptions of watches change over time and no watch may have rocketed from total obscurity to the spotlight as quickly as the 222 last year. The 222 was, for some time, the very unobvious, alternative choice. I know this because for a decade until 2022, when someone asked me ‘Royal Oak or Nautilus?’, I’d always…

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Price

$801.12


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1665-Rolex-Double-Red-Sea-Dweller

Mark 2, Tropical Dial 1665 ‘Double Red’ Rolex Sea-Dweller

The 1665 Double Red Sea-Dweller (DRSD) is like a 5513 Sub turned up to eleven. It’s a little more technical with a helium valve, a little more appealing to some for its lack of cyclops, and just a little more nuanced in the details. But this DRSD goes way past eleven, thanks to a dial…

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Price

$801.12


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Guilloche-Dial-Rolex-Day-Date-1803

Guilloche Dial 1803 Rolex Day-Date, Pink Gold

Until this year in the new 1908, the words Rolex and guilloché almost never went together. But very, very occasionally, there was a Day-Date with a hand engine turned dial. A quick Google will turn up the last one that came to market which we covered, a square pyrimidal cut. Some of the more famous…

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Price

$801.12


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Floating-Cosmograph-Dial-16520-Rolex-Daytona

Floating Cosmograph, ‘Porcelain’ Dial 16520 Rolex Daytona

The first of anything in Rolex-land tends to be a bit different, not just because it’s new, but relative to what came after. These small, initial periods of experimentation are where you get meters first Subs, red depth Datejusts, fuchsia GMTs, ‘Blackout’ 14270s, and, indeed, this Floating Cosmograph. This is the very start of the…

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Price

$801.12


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3508-IWC-Ingenieur-500K-A/m

3508 IWC Ingenieur 500K A/m

In the release of IWC’s latest Ingenieur, the brand went out of their way to not advertise the watch on the basis of its magnetic resistance or indeed list it in any media. Isn’t that a bit odd for thee IWC Antimagnetic watch? In this 3508 from the late 80s, IWC were so proud of…

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Price

$801.12


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