SLGH007, ‘Tree Ring’ Hi-Beat, Platinum

The SLGH007 is Grand Seiko's way of celebrating 140 years of Seiko, a limited edition platinum Hi-Beat made in 140 examples. SLGH007 was the showcase for Grand Seiko's updated 'Series 9' design, designed to flatter the technically impressive new 9SA5 calibre. This was the flagship release, where Grand Seiko released their full ability unto a small series of production. The result might make you question Swiss watchmaking's dominance.

This dial is not pressed in the way that many Grand Seiko dials are, but painstakingly engraved. It is a deep anthracite made to evoke the slow evolution of time, featuring abstract tree rings in an organic texture with minuscule variation in tone and texture. The idea is that cedar growth parallels Grand Seiko's own slow and steady evolution over the years. This is a dial that delights in a loupe, both in the base and its furniture. The indices and pyramidal hands have been updated for Series 9, with micro-contrast satin and Zaratsu polished angles. The shape has been optimized to show off this ability. It is particularly impressive here, as the hands and indices are all rendered in white gold.

The 40mm case of the SLGH007 and its Series 9 language is designed to take full advantage of the 9SA5 profile and flatter its proportions. Grand Seiko thinned the case to 11.7mm to keep a 'lower center of gravity'. In the words of designer Kiytotaka Sakai, 'We greatly reduced the reverse bevel of the case side and, by making it into a straight, wide vertical surface, we gave depth to the case side and a shape with a strong presence, from the steep vertical surface of the case side, the upper surface of the lug with its gentle curve, and the lug with a sharply cut off tip, we have achieved a case shape that is firm and light.' Long, sweeping Zaratsu bevels now adorn the midcase, with brushed tops and a flattering comparably bi-finished bezel. The lug profile is particularly strong, with a harsh shark-nosed cutoff.

The calibre 9SA5 also deviates drastically from all Hi-Beats which came before, most notably in a dual impulse escapement. It is a complex construction but oil-free and highly accurate, an escapement influenced by both George Daniel and Derek Pratt's work, previously only found in Charles Frodsham and Bernhard Lederer's independent watchmaking. However, this escapement was designed using MEMS lithography to be extremely light and low-inertia, resulting in an 80 hour reserve despite 36000 vph from twin barrels. In addition, it is thinner by a full 1mm to the prior 9S85. The anglage, striping, and heat blued details are executed by hand at the Shizukuishi Watch Studio. It is one of the most impressive serially produced calibres of the recent decades.

This SLGH007 is a technical masterclass on many levels, but ultimately an expression of art. The care and quality which suffuses all Grand Seiko feels as though it's been taken up a level here, from the new escapement to a fully platinum clasp and strap made entirely within Japan. The watch commands a certain dominating presence which rewards close study. The SLGH007 is a testament to Grand Seiko's ability to not just challenge Switzerland with innovative technology and painstaking attention to detail, but outdo them.

This SLGH007 presents in exceptional condition. The case bears no visible wear, probably only worn on one or two occasions. Its original strap is not at all bent and lays flat with no signs of wear. Upon our receipt of the watch, the caseback sticker was still on. We only removed it to properly photography the calibre 9SA5. And the platinum clasp shows no scratches at all. It comes with its full set, running well in spec on our timing equipment.

This watch is modelled on a relatively large sized 7.7 inch wrist.