LUC 1860, Steel

In 1997, Chopard pursued a strategy no other brand dared. They found a talented watchmaker, gave him a blank check, gave him ample time, and told him to develop the world’s greatest time-only calibre. The 16/1680/1 resulted, a very refined and technically impressive three-hander devised by Michel Parmigiani. This placed the brand in the highest regard amongst collectors and manufactures alike. In 2023, Chopard payed their own respects to that legacy in the this: the LUC 1860 in Lucent steel with a salmon guilloche dial. The subtlety of this release only proves just how much the original got right from the start. 

At a glance, it’s still 36.5mm and only 8.2mm thin, with a COSC certification, Geneva Seal, and perfect dial design. The only obvious difference to the original 16/1860 is the lack of a date, which has been done away with in the name of purity. Those with a close eye will also note that the radial rosette guilloche now points toward the Chopard plaque rather than the handstack. It is still produced at Metalem, which Chopard has acquired since the originals. Interestingly, the midcase has been brushed which provides a contrast the original did not. That case is rendered in Chopard’s ‘Lucent’ steel, which is named for its brightness relative to other alloys, lighter in shade. 

Calibre 96.40-L remains as beautiful and impressive as the micro-rotor architecture was in the original calibre 1.96. It boasts dual stacked mainspring barrels, 65-hour reserve, beautiful finishing, and a contrasting 22k gold micro-rotor mass. 

The new LUC 1860 was not a limited edition but a limited production, of roughly 100 yearly. This is only because they are remarkably time-intensive to produce and submit for certification. Each bears an immense and obvious quality in the metal, in the way few watches do. Chopard very much chose evolution over revolution in this reissue. It is discerningly updated to a slightly more contemporary and relaxed aesthetic, without losing any of the magic which Parmigiani intended. 

This 1860 presents in excellent overall condition. Its case bears only light signs of occasional wear on bezel. Its caseback still wears the protective engraving sticker. All original papers and the set are still included.

This example is modelled on an average-sized 7-inch wrist